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If this will be your first time ordering from Banggood, you should know a few things.

CONTROLLERS / TRANSMITTERS

The controller goes in your hands. The receiver goes in your quad. You move the sticks on the controller, and those commands are transmitted wirelessly to the quad via the receiver.

Different brands of controllers use different protocols to talk to their receivers. So a Ghost receiver won’t work with a Crossfire module. When you buy a controller, you need to realize that you’re also locking yourself into which receivers you’re going to buy. This is actually way more important than many beginners realize. Some brands of receivers are more expensive. Some brands don’t have a good selection of micro-receivers such as are used in mini quads. Some brands lack features like telemetry (so you can check your battery voltage and other stats while flying). And some have significantly more range than others.

One exception to this rule is the “multiprotocol” radios, which come with a “4-in-1” RF module that can bind to FrSky, FlySky, Spektrum, and more. Examples include the Jumper T18 and RadioMaster TX16S.

Which protocol should you get? I made a video breaking down this decision.

RADIOMASTER
TX16S MKII

The biggest selling point of the TX16S is its 4-in-1 multiprotocol module. This means that it can bind to most of the major receiver types: FrSky, FlySky, and Spektrum; it can also control many proprietary bind-n-fly aircraft. Get a “toy quad” with a “toy-grade” controller? The TX16S can probably control it.

The TX16S runs EdgeTX. EdgeTX is an incredibly powerful and flexible operating system for controllers. Pretty much anything you can imagine wanting your controller to do, EdgeTX can do. Since I’m a real gearhead nerd, that makes it perfect for me. The downside of this is that EdgeTX can be a little complicated to learn to use at first. Some beginners struggle.

Other reasons to choose the TX16S include its huge, color touch-screen (touch-screen capability not active until upgraded with EdgeTX version 2.4). It has full-size Hall Effect gimbals, something never before seen in a radio at this price. Like all EdgeTX radios, it works with your PC simulator. It’s also got USB-C internal charging for 18650 lithium cells or a 2S lipo battery (linked below).

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RADIOMASTER
TX16S MKII MAX

MID-BUDGET OPTION

The TX16S Max is the upgraded version of the TX16S listed above. What does the “Max” get you? Custom colors. Stiffer, heavier plastic on the shell. CNC metal gimbals. Metal buttons and roller instead of plastic. Metal folding carry handle. And leather side grips. The TX16S Max has the same great performance as the “standard” version, with upgraded aesthetics and feel. For those who say, “I like EdgeTX radios, but they all feel so cheap!” Here’s the answer.

The Mk2 version of the TX16S Max made some small improvements to the TX16S, such as reverse-polarity protection on the battery leads. But the main thing the Mk2 added was additional options. The radio can now be ordered with Hall Effect gimbals or upgraded AG01 CNC metal gimbals pre-installed. And it can be ordered with the usual 4-in-1 RF module or a 250 mW ExpressLRS module pre-installed.

Some people are going to scoff that my “top of the line” radio isn’t an ultra-premium brand like Futaba or Jeti. Obviously, those are amazing radios. But in the FPV community at least, EdgeTX is the standard for radios, and I couldn’t in good faith recommend a non-EdgeTX radio, no matter how excellent it is.

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RADIOMASTER TX16S MKII MAX /
MKII MAX PRO CUSTOM EDITIONS

TOP OF THE LINE

These special editions further upgrade the TX16S Max (and increase its price).

The JB version is the same as the TX16S Max, but with custom colors, and a JB voice pack pre-installed on the SD card. It comes with an internal ExpressLRS module instead of the usual 4-in-1 module.

The Lumenier version has AG01 gimbals and a metal CNC face plate, which raises the gimbals up a couple of mm, making the sticks extend further from the face of the radio.

Although the Lumenier version’s metal face plate seems desirable (more metal = good, right?) I personally prefer the plastic of the original Max version. It has a more rounded edge that fits my hand better, and the metal face plate just sucks the heat out of your hands on a cold day or gets uncomfortably hot if left in the sun.

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RADIOMASTER
BOXER

The Radiomaster Boxer might be my personal favorite of all the radios on this page. And I’m saying that even though I have a “signature edition” of the TX16S with my name on it!

The Boxer feels perfect in my hands. It’s just big enough to give me something to grip, without being bulky. It has full-size gimbals which some pilots feel give more precise control. There are enough switches and knobs to do most of what an FPV pilot will want to do. It even comes with a switch and gimbal protector for when you toss it into your bag.

The Boxer can be ordered with either a 4-in-1 module (for binding to Frsky, Flysky, Spektrum, and similar receivers) or a built-in ExpressLRS module. Unlike most internal ELRS modules that go to 250 mW, this one goes to 1 watt, which gives it about 2x the range. Of course, there’s a module bay in the back so you can use any other protocol that you prefer.

One major disadvantage of the Boxer is its screen. It’s got a smaller, black-and-white screen. The TX16S has a big, beautiful, color touch-screen, which makes it much nicer to work with.

Until I saw the Boxer, I never really thought that the TX16S might be too much of a good thing. The Boxer is a more stripped-down experience that gives you just what you need in a compact, simple package. When I handle my TX16S, with its big screen and all the switches sticking out, on some level I’m always a little worried I’m going to break it. When I handle the Boxer, I don’t feel that way.

Oh yeah–and the price of the Boxer is about half what you’d pay for a TX16S!

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RADIOMASTER
BOXER MAX

The Boxer Max is the “cosmetic upgrade” version of the Boxer. All buttons and knobs are colored CNC metal instead of plastic and it has leather side grips. It also comes with a metal kickstand and premium all-metal AG01 gimbals.

My general opinion of the “Max” versions of the RadioMaster radios is, that if you can afford them, they’re a worthy upgrade. They address the “cheap plasticky” feel that some people associate with the standard-version radios. But they’re not going to make you a better pilot. They’re probably not going to last longer. You can do everything you need to do with the standard radios, and they’re plenty durable. It’s just a question of whether you want to pay a little more for the upgraded look and feel.

Bear in mind, that all parts for the “Max” radio are available from Radiomaster, so if you already own a Boxer and want to upgrade it, you don’t need to buy a whole new radio.

My only complaint is that they don’t offer it in purple.

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RADIOMASTER
ZORRO

A lot of people are going to think the Zorro is the perfect radio. The Zorro feels great in the hand. Micro-switches are more durable than full-sized switches used on other radios–consistent with the “toss it in a backpack” nature of game-pad style radios. It’s got tons of controls–switches, knobs, and buttons–in intuitive locations. The screen is large enough to use in the field, although some feel it should have been smaller, to keep the radio smaller overall.

Here’s the main thing that will scare off some people: battery life. The Zorro uses 18350-sized batteries, which have about 1/2 to 1/3 the capacity of typical 18650 cells. Running the radio at full power, I got about 90 minutes of continuous use before I started getting battery warnings. RadioMaster has addressed this with a aux power plug that takes a 2S battery, as well as the ability to charge via a USB power bank while flying. And of course, you can also just buy some spare cells and swap them out. But some people are annoyed by this decision and would rather not have to manage their controller battery so carefully.

The Zorro comes in several different versions. Make sure you buy the right one. The 4-in-1 version can bind to most “traditional” 2.4 GHz receivers, such as Frsky, FlySky, Spektrum, Futaba, and more. The CC2500 version can bind to FrSky and Futaba, but not FlySky and Spektrum. The ELRS version has a built-in ExpressLRS module. All versions have an external module bay for adding another protocol if desired.

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RADIOMASTER
ZORRO MAX

The Zorro Max has the same features and options as the Zorro, but adds some comfort and style features. AG01 mini full metal CNC-machined gimbals add weight, smoothness, precision, and longevity compared to the plastic gimbals on the standard Zorro. They’re also available in stylish colors. Buttons on the Max are also metal instead of plastic, for a more premium feel. The Max has a carbon fiber pattern and faux-leather grips.

The main reason to choose the Max over the standard Zorro is the AG01 gimbals. They’re not going to make you a better pilot, but they are much nicer to use and have a more premium feel than the standard plastic ones. Whether that’s worth the additional price is a personal decision (but personally, I have AG01 gimbals on all my RadioMaster radios).

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RADIOMASTER
POCKET RADIO

The Radiomaster Pocket is not the perfect radio for everybody. But it’s the perfect radio for a few people. Maybe you’re one of them!

First: if you want a decent-quality radio without spending too much money, the Pocket is for you. It hasn’t got the same fit-and-finish as more expensive radios, but it’s decently made. The core features and capabilities are the same as other radios costing 2 or 3 times as much. Most “budget” radios are built like toys. They cut a lot of corners and don’t last. The Pocket is a “real” radio at a very appealing price.

Second, if you care a LOT about size and portability, the Pocket is relatively compact and durable. The sticks can be removed for transport and the switches don’t stick out very far (to get broken off).

Third, if you have small hands or you’re buying for a younger, smaller person, this radio may fit better than larger ones.

If you buy the Pocket, there’s a fair chance that you will outgrow it and upgrade to a higher-end radio eventually. If you can afford something like the Boxer or the Zorro, I’d suggest them as a better long-term choice. But if you’re not ready to commit to one of those radios, the Pocket will do today.

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EXPRESSLRS

ExpressLRS is one of the most exciting control links today. It is open source, which means enthusiasts develop it for free, just because they love doing it. Their goal was to develop the lowest-latency control link possible. A side effect of a super low latency link is that range is reduced. But happily, ELRS lets you decide: do you want a super low latency, shorter-range link; or do you want a higher latency, ultra-long-range link? This means that ELRS can basically meet the needs of any pilot: from a racer who wants 1000 Hz refresh rate, to a long-range enthusiast who wants to fly 60 km or more.

Despite its amazing performance, there are a few reasons why some people will skip ELRS. The first one is that commercial ELRS hardware may not be made to the same standards as TBS or Ghost receivers. Many different manufacturers make ELRS-compatible receivers, and some have higher quality standards than others. With Crossfire or Ghost, there is a single company that cares about the reputation of the system and the quality of the hardware. With ELRS, that’s not as true. (If you really think you can do it better, you can still buy a kit and solder up your own ELRS hardware.)

A second drawback of ELRS is that it’s a little more complicated to manage than some other systems. Owning an ELRS system, you are expected to be able to compile your own firmware and flash it to your module and receivers. There’s a PC-based utility that makes this as easy as possible, but it’s still more difficult for most novices than Crossfire and Ghost.

A final drawback is that ELRS is designed to be used with a flight controller. If you fly planes with servos driven directly off the receiver, ELRS doesn’t work well for that. However, this is changing fast! As of this writing, Matek has released the first ELRS receiver with PWM outputs and receivers with more servo outputs are in the works.

ExpressLRS hardware comes in two versions: one for 900 MHz operation and one for 2.4 GHz operation. Most experts agree that 900 MHz is only necessary for those looking to go extremely long ranges–like 50 km or more. Although 2.4 GHz has a reputation for poor range and penetration, the LoRa technology used by ELRS more than makes up for this. 2.4 GHz is a universal worldwide band; can have more pilots in the air without interference; has smaller antennas; and can operate up to 500 Hz or more. All of the equipment on this page is 2.4 GHz ELRS for this reason.

RADIOMASTER RANGER NANO
2.4 GHZ
ELRS TX MODULE

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RADIOMASTER RANGER MICRO
2.4 GHZ
ELRS TX MODULE

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AXISFLYING
2.4 GHZ
ELRS TX MODULE

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HAPPYMODEL ES24TX PRO
2.4GHZ
ELRS TX MODULE

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HAPPYMODEL ES24TX SLIM PRO
2.4GHZ
ELRS TX MODULE

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HAPPYMODEL ES24TX-LITE
2.4GHZ
ELRS TX MODULE

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As of this writing, a lot of manufacturers make ExpressLRS modules. So why aren’t more of them represented on the list? Inconsistent quality is the answer. Not to say that these vendors will always be perfect, but this is the hardware that the ELRS devs say they’d choose.

When choosing a module, make sure to pick the form factor that fits your radio. Radios with a JR module bay should choose the Ranger Micro or the Happymodel Pro. Radios with a “lite” module bay should choose the Ranger Nano or the Happymodel Slim Pro. The Happymodel Lite is specifically made to go on the back of the Jumper T-Lite radio. The AxisFlying Thor and the Radiomaster Ranger full-size module are unique in that they can mount on the back of a Spektrum or Futaba radio without a module bay (as long as it supports Crossfire). The Ranger full-size comes with adapters to also let it fit in a JR or Lite module bay.

The main thing that distinguishes the AxisFlying Thor and the Radiomaster Ranger full-size module is that they come with a screen and joystick, so they can be configured directly from the module, instead of having to use a Lua script running on the radio screen. In addition, the Ranger can be reprogrammed to go up to 2 watts, making it the most powerful 2.4 GHz ELRS module you can buy.

RADIOMASTER
RP2 NANO RX

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ExpressLRS receivers are made by a lot of different manufacturers, under a lot of different model names. Once you can recognize their key features, you’ll notice they’re actually very similar to each other.

The “EP1” and “EP2” receivers are absolutely tiny, weighing only 0.4 grams. They can fit into just about any build, but they’re ideal for micros. The EP1 receiver has a standard UFL antenna connector, which plugs into a wire antenna that you can mount the usual way. The EP2 receiver has a ceramic antenna soldered onto the circuit board. This is a little better than half the range of the EP1’s external antenna, but completely eliminates any questions about mounting the antenna, and eliminates the risk of chopping the antenna with the props. The EP2 is especially appealing to racers who don’t need extraordinary range and those flying the tiniest of aircraft, where size/weight is more of a concern than range. Don’t be scared; you can still get kilometers of range on an EP2, even though an EP1 will go even further.

The RadioMaster RP1 and RP2 are basically the same as the EP1 and EP2, just made by RadioMaster instead of Happymodel. Of note: RadioMaster has added TCXO (temperature-controlled oscillator) to all of their RP receivers. See the description of the Happymodel TCXO receiver below for more about this.

RADIOMASTER
RP3 NANO RX

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HAPPYMODEL
EP1 DUAL RX

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The Radiomaster RP3 and Matek R24D have antenna diversity. This means they have two antennas and the receiver switches between the antennas depending on which one has the strongest signal. A good way to use this feature is to mount one antenna on the front and one on the back of the quad, so you don’t lose signal when you turn around to come home. This feature is especially useful to pilots who will be operating at the edge of the range and can’t afford an unexpected drop in signal strength.

The Happymodel EP1 Dual takes diversity one step further! Instead of switching between the antennas, listening to one at a time, it can listen to both antennas at the same time! This means it’s never “accidentally” listening to the wrong antenna and missing a data packet. On top of that, ELRS team is working on “dual” transmitter modules that can transmit on two antennas at a time. Once this is released, the system could achieve even lower latency and higher link reliability for the most demanding applications.

HAPPYMODEL
EP2 TCXO RX

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HAPPYMODEL
EP1 DUAL TCXO RX

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The above receivers are exactly like the EP1, EP2, and EP1 Dual receivers, except that these add a TCXO (temperature-controlled oscillator). When a non-TCXO receiver is used in an extremely hot or cold environment, its crystal oscillator can go out of spec and the link can failsafe at short range, or refuse to bind entirely. For most people, a TCXO is overkill, but if you know that you’ll be using ExpressLRS in extreme environments, a TCXO receiver should be on your list.

Note: All RadioMaster RP receivers have added TCXO as standard equipment, even though they are not advertised with TCXO in their name.

IMMERSIONRC GHOST

ImmersionRC Ghost operates in the 2.4 GHz frequency band, similar to last-generation receivers. But Ghost uses a sophisticated modulation technology called LoRa to get an unbelievable range. Under typical conditions, Ghost can go 10-15 km; under ideal conditions, it can go 50 km or more. Even if long range isn’t your focus, this translates to additional penetration through obstacles, and confidence in your link.

The main appeal of Ghost is its flexibility. It can operate in “long range” mode to get the maximum range at the cost of latency; “pure race” mode minimizes latency at the expense of range, and there are several modes in between. Ghost is the ideal system if you intend to cruise mountains 10 km out one day, smash a concrete bando the next day, and race the next day. Because it operates in the 2.4 GHz band, Ghost avoids the interference issues of Crossfire and other 900 MHz protocols. It’s ideal for racers and those who fly in large groups.

If you fly analog video, the Ghost Hybrid line combines a Ghost receiver and analog video transmitter in one unit, which simplifies building and wiring.

One disadvantage of Ghost its maximum output power is only 350 mW, so its ultimate range and penetration is less than Crossfire, Tracer, and ExpressLRS. ImmersionRC’s counter-argument is that all of these systems offer more range to outrun your video link, at which point who cares? Well…. maybe. But some people do care.

It might seem like Ghost is in a weird place compared to its competitors. If you’re looking for ultimate long-range, Crossfire beats Ghost. ExpressLRS also has more range and the same flexibility to choose between long-range and low-latency modes. The main advantage of Ghost is its ease of use. If you hate flashing firmware and constantly having to keep up with new developments, ExpressLRS might drive you crazy. I know several pilots who stick with Ghost because they want a low-latency control link but aren’t happy with the complexity and inconsistent hardware quality of ELRS.

IMMERSIONRC GHOST
JR TX MODULE

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IMMERSIONRC GHOST
LITE MODULE

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IMMERSIONRC GHOST
ZEPTO RECEIVER

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IMMERSIONRC GHOST
ULTIMATE HYBRID

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IMMERSIONRC GHOST
HYBRID V2

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The performance of the micro and the lite Ghost module is identical. Just pick whichever one matches your radio’s module bay. The Atto will be the right receiver for most people; the Zepto has identical performance but is much smaller and lighter, ideal for tiny quadcopters.

TBS CROSSFIRE

Crossfire operates around 900 MHz, which means it has a much… MUCH longer range and better penetration than legacy 2.4 GHz systems. It also out-ranges current-generation 2.4 GHz systems like Ghost, Tracer, and ExpressLRS, but not by as much. Even if you don’t intend to do long-range flights, the reliability and security of the Crossfire link gives you the confidence to fly places you never would have dared. Crossfire also has ultra-low latency, for a responsive, connected feel.

Because the performance of Crossfire, Ghost, ExpressLRS, and Tracer is more than most pilots need, it can be difficult to choose between them. Crossfire is the most mature of the long-range control links. It won’t surprise you with bugs or performance issues, and there is a huge community and lots of support for whatever questions you might have. Crossfire is no longer the lowest-latency link, so racers might prefer Ghost, ExpressLRS, or Tracer, but Crossfire’s latency is still excellent, and it has superior range and penetration to the others. Racers or others who fly in large groups might want to avoid Crossfire because the 900 MHz frequency band that it uses is relatively small, especially in the EU, which can result in failsafes.

Once upon a time, Crossfire was the most cutting-edge, high-performance control link you could get. That’s not true anymore. In many ways, it’s actually starting to look a little dated. But it’s still many people’s preferred choice because it’s relatively simple to use, and has extremely good range and penetration. When you want a link that has the absolute lowest potential to failsafe, Crossfire is most people’s choice.

TBS CROSSFIRE TX MODULE

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TBS CROSSFIRE MICRO TX MODULE V2
FOR USE WITH JR MODULE BAYS

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TBS CROSSFIRE NANO TX MODULE
FOR USE WITH LITE MODULE BAYS

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For most FPV pilots, I believe that the Micro TX Module is the right choice. It fits easily into the JR module bay of your transmitter. It transmits at up to 1 watt, which gives more than enough range to outrun typical 5.8 GHz FPV systems.

Here is what would make you want to buy the full-sized Crossfire module, which goes up to 2 watts. If you plan to do long-range flights with customized video equipment. If you are willing to pay a bit more for the assurance that you really, really will have the most solid link possible. If you have a Spektrum radio (which doesn’t have a JR module bay, and so requires the full-size module). If you prefer to use the joystick and LED screen on the back of the module instead of a “Lua Script” running inside your radio.

TBS CROSSFIRE NANO RECEIVER

The Nano receiver will be the preferred Crossfire receiver for almost everybody reading this. There are larger receivers, intended mostly for fixed-wing aircraft, and there is a Nano Diversity receiver that comes with two antennas, if you intend to push really long distances. For a typical FPV racing or freestyle pilot, the one linked above is the best choice.

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TBS CROSSFIRE STARTER SET

The starter set is the most economical way to switch to Crossfire. It comes with a module, three receivers, and three “immortal T” antennas. It’s significantly cheaper than buying the parts separately.

The starter set comes in a Micro version, for radios with a JR module bay (most radios), and a Nano version, for radios with a Lite module bay (mostly FrSky radios like XLite and X9 Lite). Be sure to get the right kind.

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TBS TRACER

TBS Tracer operates in the 2.4 GHz frequency band, similar to last-generation receivers. But Tracer uses a sophisticated modulation technology called FLRC, to get a much better range. Under typical conditions, Tracer goes about 2-4 km, but Tracer does it at a much lower latency, which is great for racers and pilots who want the most connected feel. Under ideal conditions, Tracer has been pushed out to about 20 km.

Tracer’s main limitation is that it isn’t really the best at anything. Ghost and ExpressLRS can both use higher packet rates and lower latency. Or you can configure them to have a longer range with higher latency. It’s up to you. With Tracer, you’re sort of stuck in the middle of the pack: good latency, but not the best; ok range, but you still failsafe in challenging situations; and if you don’t like that, there’s nothing you can do about it other than buy a different system.

The main appeal of Tracer is that it gives low latency and adequate range while keeping you in the TBS ecosystem. Switching from Crossfire to Tracer has almost no learning curve. Getting started with Tracer is easy because most Crossfire tutorials also apply to Tracer.

If you’re committed to the TBS ecosystem and you’re looking for a lower-latency link than Crossfire, then Tracer is your choice. But if I’m honest, a lot of people in that position are switching to ExpressLRS.

SPARE PARTS & ACCESSORIES

RDQ 2S 5000 MAH
BATTERY PACK FOR RADIOMASTER TX16S

The RadioMaster TX16S has a larger battery bay. Wouldn’t it be nice if there was a battery that completely filled it, giving you the longest run time possible? This is it.

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RADIOMASTER 2S 7.4V 6200MAH
BATTERY FOR BOXER AND TX16S

This battery fits perfectly into the back of the Boxer and TX16S radios. It’s just about the biggest battery you can get into them, so if you’re looking for maximum runtime, this is it. It has 2x to 3x the runtime of a typical set of 18650 cells. The battery also has an extra-long plug leading to an XT30 connector, which is perfect for those high-powered external radio modules that need auxiliary power.

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RADIOMASTER  3.7V 900 MAH
18350 LI-ION BATTERY FOR ZORRO

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TX16S MKII / BOXER / ZORRO
SWITCH ASSEMBLIES

On a long enough timeline, your chances of breaking a switch on your RadioMaster controller go to 100%. When it happens, here’s where to get replacements.

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RADIOMASTER
LED GIMBAL KIT FOR AG01 GIMBAL

This is an LED Light ring that goes underneath the gimbals on your Radiomaster TX16S. Either you think this is the most awesome thing you’ve ever seen, or you think it’s dumb and a waste of money. I’m not going to try to change your mind either way. (P.S. I’m in the awesome camp.)

Watch The Install Video Here

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RADIOMASTER GIMBAL
LUBRICANT SET

This lubricating oil can be applied to the throttle slider-bar in your gimbal, eliminating roughness and giving it a “damped” movement that makes it feel ultra-premium. One note: Radiomaster is (at the time of this writing) shipping gimbals with this oil pre-installed, so if your gimbal already feels great, that’s probably why. If you’ve got an older Radiomaster gimbal, or a non-Radiomaster radio with a rough throttle, I consider this to be a must-have upgrade. Just apply a little bit with a q-tip directly to the throttle slider-bar.

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RADIOMASTER AG01 CNC
HALL GIMBAL SETS

The gimbals have always been the weakness of budget-class RC controllers like the ones on this page. Not that they’re bad. They’re fine. Some of them are even pretty good! But when you spend $800 or more on a Futaba or Spektrum radio, the gimbals are really something special.

High-end gimbals are machined from a block of metal instead of molded plastic. They’ve got weight. They’re solid. They don’t flex when you deflect the stick all the way. And they just… look awesome. Like a tool, not like a toy.

The Radiomaster AG01 gimbals bring this level of quality to the budget-class radios on this page! Although after you buy them, you might not be in the budget class anymore. Let’s be honest: these gimbals aren’t going to make you a better pilot. The stock gimbals are good enough to do anything you want to do. I like to say that putting the AG01 gimbals in your radio is like putting leather upholstery in your car. It won’t make it better, it’ll just make it nicer to be in.

The AG01’s come in two variants. The “mini” version is for the Radiomaster Zorro and TX12. It also can be installed in the Jumper T12. The “standard” version fits in the TX16S (any version) and the Boxer.


Watch JB’s Review of the Radiomaster AG01 CNC Gimbals

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RADIOMASTER METAL UPGRADE SET
FOR TX16S / BOXER TRANSMITTERS

Everybody is always asking how they can get a purple RadioMaster TX16S max just like mine. They don’t sell it! But they do sell this custom-colored CNC metal kit. You can use this to upgrade a standard TX16S or Boxer to look like a Max, or to install a custom color into a Max. Beware: you have to completely disassemble your radio to install these parts, so don’t underestimate the time involved.

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THUMB GRIPPIES /
RIP STICKS

The stick ends that come with controllers vary widely in quality. Some of them are downright painful to use. But even if you kind of like your stick ends, they’re probably not perfect. Thumb Grippies and 533 stick ends are one of the best ways to personalize your controller. They’re not just cosmetic! They change how your fingers interface with the sticks and can give you more control or just a more comfortable flying experience.

We can’t show all the variants of Thumb Grippies here, so definitely click through to the site and scope all the different choices. I’ve also got a review of some of them linked below (although they’ve made new ones since that video so what can you do).

Which of these stick ends is best for you?

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THE BEST DAMN NECK-STRAP
NO KIDDING.

I get super excited when I see a small thing done really well, in a way that I never knew I needed. That’s why I really flipped out with joy when I first saw this neck-strap.

Here’s what it does so well: it’s got a releasable clip so you can put your radio down without taking the strap off from around your neck. It’s a tiny thing, but it makes a HUGE difference. Especially when you have FPV goggles on your head, taking off the neck strap is a pain in the butt. But walking around with your transmitter dangling in front of you is so awkward. And an invitation to damage or even accidentally arming your quad.

This is literally the only neck-strap that I use.

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