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If this will be your first time ordering from Banggood, you should know a few things.
Here’s why this page is a little bit different from the other ones on the Shopping List. Normally, the pages are divided up into categories like motors, frame, and flight controllers, and then you get to pick from several choices in each category. But Tiny Whoops aren’t usually built like that. The selection of parts is pretty limited, and the selection of great parts that we want to recommend is even smaller. The other complication is that bind-n-fly Whoops are very good, and fewer people build from scratch. In some cases, if you DO want to build from scratch, the best way to go about it is to buy a bind-n-fly Whoop and upgrade it.
What about the phrase “Tiny Whoop”? Tiny Whoop is a registered trademark of Jesse Perkins, also known as Mr. Tiny Whoop. Jesse was instrumental in forming and popularizing this category of drone. So much so that people generically call every drone in this category a “Tiny Whoop,” even though technically only Jesse’s products are official Tiny Whoops. We’re also going to do that on this page.
So what defines this category then? A Tiny Whoop is a quadcopter with a wheelbase of 65mm to 85mm, using a frame with prop guards, and props of about 31mm to 40mm. Some people are probably going to disagree with that, but that’s what we’re using for this page.
Thanks to Ahren Ciotti for his help picking parts for this list. Ciotti is incredibly experienced and knowledgeable with this class of quadcopter, and I couldn’t have made this page without him. Please visit his YouTube channel and website – CiottiFPV.com.
Sometimes, there are so many great examples in a category that it’s difficult to decide which ones to include on this site. When it comes to bind-n-fly Whoops, we don’t have that problem. There are just a few that are consistently better than most of the others in terms of performance and durability.
65mm motor-to-motor Whoops are better for indoor flying and racing while 75mm will do much better outside fighting the wind and covering ground. Analog is significantly lighter and more durable making it the only choice if you’d like good flight performance, but digital whoops are a great way to kick back and just enjoy the majesty of flight.
HAPPYMODEL MOBULA6
65MM
In our (informal) opinion, the Mobula6 has been the most popular bind-n-fly Whoop since it came out. In a world where new stuff takes over every six months, that’s saying a lot. Whenever you build a quad this small, you make some compromises in terms of range and camera image quality, but the Mobula6 is as good or better than its competition, and its flight performance is spectacular. Notably, its video transmitter is rated up to 200 mW, instead of the 25 mW that most other Whoops have, which gives more than 2x the range.
We recommend the highest-kv motors (25,000 kv 0802 or 26,000 kv 0702 depending which receiver type you buy), even though they might be too powerful for some pilots. If that’s the case, use the Betaflight “motor output scale” function to reduce the output to a value you’re comfortable with. The higher kv will always be waiting for you when you’re ready.
The Mobula6 has traditionally come with a built-in FrSky compatible receiver. There are two problems with this. First, it has poor range. Second, newer FrSky radios with ACCESS protocol won’t bind to it without buying an external transmitter module. Happymodel now sells the Mob6 with a built in ExpressLRS receiver, which has significantly better range. This is the one we recommend, if you’re willing to tackle the learning curve of getting started with ELRS.
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NEWBEEDRONE ACROBEE65 BLV4
65MM
On paper, it’s a little hard to justify choosing the Acrobee over the Mobula6. The Mob6 is significantly less expensive, lighter in weight, and uses standard JST1.25 motor plugs. The reason the Acrobee is here is its quality. Happymodel quality is … acceptable. Newbeedrone’s quality is higher, although nobody’s perfect. In addition, Newbeedrone ships from the USA. Which, if you’re in the USA is great. But if you’re anywhere else, you’ll probably prefer the Happymodel.
All that being said, ELRS on the Acrobee is UART based rather than SPI which is more user-friendly. Also, the antenna setup with both a t antenna up top and a whip antenna out the back is superior to the ceramic tower on the Mobula6 but you’ll lose video long before even beginning to push ELRS’s range.
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HAPPYMODEL MOBULA6 HDZERO
65MM
HD Zero has managed to make the impossible possible with a 6-gram camera and VTX combo which Happymodel have put into their Mobula 6 HDZero 1S. You will definitely notice the 4 grams of additional weight (this AIO is 2 grams lighter since it doesn’t have a VTX built-in) vs an analog Whoop especially when flying indoors but being able to see where you’re going and 720p DVR sure do make this an intriguing BnF. A highly recommended upgrade here to handle that extra weight will be swapping over to the ex0802 25,000kv motors.
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HAPPYMODEL MOBULA7
75MM / 1S ANALOG
The Mobula7 takes what’s good about the Mobula6 and scales it up from 65mm motor to motor spacing with 1.2″ props to 75mm and 1.6″ props. This along with bigger motors and battery increases its power, speed, and run time making it a better choice for large indoor spaces like warehouses. The tradeoff is that there’s less of the “turn on a dime” agility that Whoops are known for making it much harder to fly in smaller indoor spaces with much more momentum behind crashes.
The 75mm is still too small to be fully comfortable outdoors in even a little bit of wind, and its size makes it a bit harder to squeeze into tiny gaps and through gates when indoors. So don’t assume that bigger equals better. Some pilots feel that the 75mm fixes everything “wrong” with the “tiny, under-powered” 65mm class. Others feel that 65mm is perfect just as it is, and anything else ruins the delicate balance that makes the formula so fun. You just have to decide which one you are.
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MOBULA7 HDZERO
75MM
Here’s what makes this quad stand out: it’s got HDZero digital high-definition video instead of standard-definition analog. HDZero is a generational leap forward in image quality and range compared to the analog video transmitters typically used on Whoops. HDZero is particularly appropriate for small quads because its video transmitters are light–not as light as analog vTX, but much lighter than DJI. In short, HDZero is the best video system for ultra-small quads today.
Bear in mind, you won’t be able to use this with your standard analog FPV goggles. You need an HDZero video receiver or goggles with HDZero receiver built in.
The HDZero version of the Mobula7 is a bit heavier than the analog version, so it doesn’t fly quite as well, but it’s still usable indoors, and the improvement in video quality and range will be more than worth it to most people.
HDZero isn’t the only thing that makes this quad stand out. It’s also got a built-in ExpressLRS receiver. For more on ExpressLRS, visit the Controller/Receiver page of this site.
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IFLIGHT ALPHA A85
85MM / 4S DJI HD
We almost didn’t include 85mm quads on this page. They’re in an awkward middle ground where you might as well go up to a 95mm, which will fly better and longer, without being too much bigger or heavier. But there’s one specific reason to choose an 85mm Whoop, and that’s if you want the smallest possible quad that carries a DJI FPV video transmitter.
Once people start flying the DJI FPV system, they often don’t want to fly anything else, and they’re willing to make compromises to make it happen. This quad is the perfect example of that. It’s heavy and not that agile. But it’s small, and it does fly, and it works with your DJI FPV goggles. It’s got prop guards so you can fly it indoors, although the weight and power makes it more challenging than a proper 65mm Whoop.
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This 65mm build will give you a full bando bashing freestyle flight experience from your couch, something previously unheard of before getting our dry weight below 20 grams with high kv motors and insane durability.
The easiest way to start is with the Mobula6 bind-n-fly since it has the lightest and strongest camera, canopy, and AIO flight controller which can be hard to source individually. If you can find it with the 0702 26,000kv motors that is ideal but the version with 0802 motors will also be fine since we’re going to swap the motors out anyway.
The weakest part of this quad is the HappyModel frame, it is the lightest frame option but it’s very fragile so get a Meteor65 frame ASAP.
TinyWhoop.com has a ton of great motor options and for freestyle the 0702s are magic. They’re extremely lightweight and any kv over 26,000 will make great power on bi-blades, our personal favorites are the 30,000s. If that’s too much power for you right now just motor output limit them down a bit in your OSD or the PID tab and as you improve you can easily add more RPM/power.
Gemfan 1210-2 bi-blade props are the perfect match for 0702 motors, but if you opt for a more powerful/heavier setup with 0802’s you can use the new 1208-3 tri-blade props. HQ props fly fine but need to be drilled out with a .99mm drill bit to open up the top of the mounting hole allowing it to be pressed all the way down on the motor shaft which is extremely important for durability.
Next, we swap the factory PH2.0 connector out for a BT2.0 pigtail, which gives significantly more run time and power. GNB27 is another option but it’s heavier, less reliable, and harder to find batteries for. You don’t want to use an adapter cable for flying, although it’s fine to use an adapter for charging the packs.
For batteries, we strongly recommend the “square cell” style of pack, which is used in the linked WeBleedFPV, Tiny Whoop, Tattu, and NewBeeDrone batteries. We believe these are the same cell being labeled by different brands. If you end up using a PH2.0 connector, you can still get decent performance with this style of battery.
The last upgrade we recommend is the TrueRC Singularity 5.8 GHz Ultra-Short U.FL Antenna. This will make the most of the (admittedly weak) vTX on Tiny Whoop AIOs, and it will actually fit inside of the canopy for an incredibly clean setup.
HAPPYMODEL MOBULA6
65MM
The ELRS version of the Mob6 will give significantly less latency and much more range, but if you haven’t invested in a module or new transmitter yet you’ll still get a great flight experience from FrSky.
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BETAFPV METEOR65
WHOOP FRAME
The most durable and second lightest frame available which BetaFPV makes in a bunch of different colors, but if you want to really stand out Tiny Whoop offers hand-dyed versions of it. Custom TWHQ dyed brushless Metor65 frames (Limited Edition.)
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TRUERC SINGULARITY
SHORT / ULTRA-SHORT U.FL ANTENNA
You have 2 options here, for maximum weight savings the Ultra-Short can actually be tucked up under the canopy for maximum durability. Alternatively you can run the regular Short version of this antenna out the top/rear of the canopy for maximum range. The long version is needlessly heavy/floppy.
Find this product at these vendors:
Purchase at RaceDayQuads – Short / Ultra-Short
Purchase at weBLEEDfpv – Short / Ultra-Short
Purchase at Tiny Whoop – Short / Ultra-Short
Purchase at TrueRC – Short / Ultra-Short
BETAFPV BT2.0
CONNECTOR
BT2.0 gives significantly lower resistance (more run time) and less voltage drop(more power) than even solid pin PH2.0, making the most of these tiny batteries. If you’re planning to switch to the BT2.0 connector, it’s better to make this decision early, since you’ll need to buy batteries with a matching connector. You don’t want to use an adapter cable for flying, although it’s fine to use an adapter for charging.
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“SQUARE CELL” 1S 300 MAH
75C LIPO WITH BT 2.0 OR PH 2.0
These folded-cell batteries are so much better than anything else available that they should be at the top of your mod list. The BT2.0 versions will typically give over 3 minutes of sag-free flight even when pushing really hard.
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GEMFAN 1210-2 31MM
BI-BLADE 1MM SHAFT
These bi-blades are truly unicorns outperforming most of the tri and quad blade props in response time, efficiency, AND thrust on the high kv motors. For freestyle they give an amount of off-throttle throw that opens up a whole new world of momentum based tricks like power loops and stalls.
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TINY WHOOP RED ROCKET SERIES
0702 30,000KV
The Tiny Whoop 0702 30,000kv motors combine lightweight with a TON of power and pop, unlike any other motor we’ve seen for Tiny Whoops. 30,000kv may seem crazy but if it’s too much power for you to control, use a motor output limit to scale them down in Betaflight’s PID tab.
If you don’t quite feel up to 30,000 kv, there are other kvs to choose from at the link below. Lower kv will give less power and responsiveness, but easier to control for beginners. Also, the higher kv ones are sometimes out of stock because they’re so AWESOME.
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If you’re looking to be competitive in the Tiny Whoop racing scene there’s a bit of variation between the builds of the top pilots, but TDog’s is the most copied which is what we’ve based this on. Keep in mind that this build is optimized for all-out performance over durability.
You’ll want the lightest possible AIO with ELRS onboard to ensure your link has the lowest possible latency. There are a few “cross” style AIOs available that fit the bill but most racers have chosen the BetaFPV F4 Light FC for its reliability and availability. For maximum weight savings, there are AIOs that also have VTXs on board but none of those video transmitters accurately output the required 25mW without bleeding over onto other channels so you need to run an external VTX.
There are a TON of great motor options thanks to TinyWhoop.com and WeBleedFPV. Most racers have found 24,000kv to be the sweet spot for power, run time, and throttle resolution on most course designs. There’s a feature in the PID tab and your OSD called Motor Output Limit so your best bet is to buy a higher kv motor (26,000 – 28,500kv) and limit it down for the smaller tracks. In terms of stator size, for a lighter weight more agile, and durable build you’ll want 0702 but for more grunt and power go for 0802s.
Prop selection is very specific to each pilot and with how durable/cheap Tiny Whoop props are you should try a few different variations. For “grip” you’ll want a tri-blade and for power/efficiency go with a bi-blade. It’s very important to push the prop ALL the way down on the motor shaft which for HQ and NBD props means that you’ll need a .99mm drill bit.
The Meteor 65 frame is the obvious choice here as the second lightest weight frame available and unmatched durability. The really fast folks actually sacrifice a bit of that durability by snipping off the outer support pieces between each duct to save another fraction of a gram.
Cameras are another component fairly specific to each pilot, some like more/wider FOV, and others prefer less for a more zoomed-in view. Tiny Whoop sells an Ultra Wide Pinch cam which is the widest, their standard Pinch and the NBD Bee Eye are a nice middle ground, and the Runcam Nano 3 is the most narrow to help you line up those far out gates.
Camera mounts are typically TPU but if you run the Runcam Nano 3 you can use the ultra-tough Mobula6 molded canopy which has adjustable uptilt. TPU mounts are available in loads of different uptilts which you should spend some time experimenting with. The Tiny Whoop pound mount is a great option but if you have access to a 3d printer, there are a bunch on Thingiverse our favorite being the “TheMcStinky – Kbar”
An external VTX is needed to avoid bleeding over onto other video channels in the small indoor environments Tiny Whoop races are typically held. There are a bunch of different lightweight nano-sized options but our suggestion is to look for one with a separate set of pads for powering your camera like the TBS Unify Nanos or Foxeer Reaper Nano.
As mentioned earlier this build prioritizes all-out performance rather than durability and the Tiny Whoop SMOL antenna is the most fragile component here with no protective cover whatsoever. The top racers usually save this antenna for important races and then run the standard 1-gram ultra-short True RC Singularity for practice.
Next, we swap the factory PH2.0 connector out for a BT2.0 pigtail, which gives significantly more run time AND power. GNB27 is another option but it’s heavier, less reliable, and harder to find batteries for. You don’t want to use an adapter cable for flying, although it’s fine to use them for charging the packs.
For batteries, you want the “square cell” style of pack, which are available with BT2.0 connectors from WeBleedFPV, Tiny Whoop, and Tattu which we believe are all the same cell being labeled by different brands. You can also get them in PH2.0 from NewBeeDrone, but the performance increase from BT2.0 will be essential if you want to be competitive.
BETAFPV F4 1S 5a TOOTHPICK/WHOOP
FLIGHT CONTROLLER
The BetaFPV F4 FC is the lightest AIO with low latency ELRS on board and has been just as reliable as the other popular options from HappyModel. This new version has a black box chip onboard making tuning MUCH simpler and the motor plugs are removable with pads underneath to save another half gram or so.
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HAPPYMODEL SE0702
BRUSHLESS MOTOR / 26000KV
The HappyModel 26,000kv motors are the most widely available and in stock high kv 0702. You’ll want to motor limit down to around %92 in the PID tab or OSD to bring them to roughly 24,000kv which is the sweet spot for power, run time, and throttle resolution on most tracks. Both Tiny Whoop and WeBleedFPV sell their own versions with the motor wires soldered to a PCB and in higher or lower kvs.
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GEMFAN 1208-3 31MM
TRIBLADE 1MM SHAFT
These new Gemfan tri blades are almost as light as the incredible 1210 bi-blade prop but with the extra grip from an entire extra blade making them the favorite for most racers. With a nice low pitch, these also match up well with high kv motors for great run time and PID loop performance. The prop mounting hole is also correctly sized and open on top so getting them on and off your motors will not be a nightmare.
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BETAFPV METEOR65
WHOOP FRAME
The most durable and second lightest frame available which BetaFPV makes in a bunch of different colors, but if you want to really stand out Tiny Whoop offers hand-dyed versions of it. Custom TWHQ dyed brushless Metor65 frames (Limited Edition.)
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TINY WHOOP PINCH
FX965TW CAMERA
The Tiny Whoop Pinch cam has the better image quality and wider FOV than the Runcam Nano 3 but is a tiny bit heavier which is a sacrifice that most top pilots are willing to make. The Ultra Wide version of it is significantly heavier but has a HUGE FOV.
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POUND MOUNT
The Pound mount is incredibly lightweight with many different uptilt options, but you’ll want to put a thin piece of foam between the mount/camera and your AIO to protect it during hard crashes.
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TBS UNIFY PRO32 NANO
25-500MW, 5.8GHz ANALOG VTX
The TBS Unify Nano or Pro32 Nano are the easy choices here, races are strictly limited to 25mW but for an extra $10 having 500mW allows for some fun gorilla whoop missions.
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TINY WHOOP
SMOL ANTENNA
Weighing a mere .25 grams this antenna is one of the easiest ways to save weight, BUT it’s extremely fragile so buy two and maybe save them for the important races/finals.
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“SQUARE CELL” 1S 300 MAH
75C LIPO WITH BT 2.0 OR PH 2.0
These folded-cell batteries are so much better than anything else available that they should be at the top of your mod list. The BT2.0 versions will typically give over 3 minutes of sag-free flight even when pushing really hard.
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BETAFPV BT2.0
CONNECTOR
BT2.0 gives significantly lower resistance (more run time) and less voltage drop(more power) than even solid pin PH2.0, making the most of these tiny batteries. If you’re planning to switch to the BT2.0 connector, it’s better to make this decision early, since you’ll need to buy batteries with a matching connector. You don’t want to use an adapter cable for flying, although it’s fine to use an adapter for charging.
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This Mobula7 1s build is the KING of the jungle gym and garden with enough extra power to better fight the wind outside but enough accuracy to shoot tiny gaps. If your piloting skills are up to it this can certainly be flown inside but that additional power/weight becomes a disadvantage and during crashes, it hits your belongings really hard.
When choosing motors for a 75mm build the most important aspect is the motor shaft diameter, 1mm is not enough and will lead to constant bent shafts during crashes but luckily there are some great 1.5mm shaft options popping up now, and the more kv the better.
For props, we recommend the Gemfan 1610-2 bi-blade for max efficiency or the new Gemfan 1608-3 for more thrust and grip.
The BT2.0 450mAh battery options here are our favorite and will typically give well over 3 minutes of sag-free flight even when pushing really hard.
The last upgrade we recommend is a circularly polarized antenna to make the most of the (admittedly weak) vTX on the quad. The TrueRC Singularity is the lightest making it the clear winner.
HAPPYMODEL MOBULA7
75MM / 1S ANALOG
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FLYWOO ROBO
1002 23500KV
These Flywoo 1002 23,500kv motors are big boys that will provide great thrust and incredible durability with a 1.5mm motor shaft. Yes they are significantly heavier than 0802’s but they handle that weight well with enough stator volume to turn either bi or triblade props without sacrificing response time.
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TRUERC SINGULARITY
SHORT / ULTRA-SHORT U.FL ANTENNA
You have 2 options here, for maximum weight savings the Ultra-Short can actually be tucked up under the canopy for maximum durability. Alternatively you can run the regular Short version of this antenna out the top/rear of the canopy for maximum range. The long version is needlessly heavy/floppy.
Find this product at these vendors:
Purchase at RaceDayQuads – Short / Ultra-Short
Purchase at weBLEEDfpv – Short / Ultra-Short
Purchase at Tiny Whoop – Short / Ultra-Short
Purchase at TrueRC – Short / Ultra-Short
“SQUARE CELL” 1S 450 MAH
LIPO WITH BT 2.0
For batteries, we strongly recommend the “square cell” style of pack, which is used in the linked Tiny Whoop and WeBleedFPV batteries. We believe these are the same cell being labeled by different brands. If you end up using PH2.0 connector, you can still get decent performance with this style of battery.
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GEMFAN
1610-2 PROPS
Gemfan really hit a home run with their Tiny Whoop bi-blade props. Amazing efficiency without sacrificing power but they’re also extremely lightweight which keeps the response time for great PID loop performance.
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GEMFAN
1608 PROPS
These brand new Gemfan 1608 props really come to life on high kv 1002 motors with great grunt and grip. They need more stator volume than you get with 0802’s but they also need more than 20,000kv on 1s making our suggested Flywoo 1002 23,500kv motor a great match.
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BETAFPV BT2.0
CONNECTOR
BT2.0 gives significantly lower resistance (more run time) and less voltage drop(more power) than even solid pin PH2.0, making the most of these tiny batteries. If you’re planning to switch to the BT2.0 connector, it’s better to make this decision early, since you’ll need to buy batteries with a matching connector. You don’t want to use an adapter cable for flying, although it’s fine to use an adapter for charging.
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BETAFPV BT2.0 BATTERY CHARGER &
VOLTAGE TESTER V2
This is a handy little charger if you’ve got batteries with BT2.0 connector. It doubles as a checker and a charger, and plugs into any USB-C cable for power. The main limitation is that it only charges up to 2 packs at a time. If you really love this charger and you’re using packs with PH2.0 connector, you could always buy some adapter cables. This charger only charges to 4.35v for HV packs. Almost all Whoop packs are HV, but if you need standard lipo (4.20v) charging, this one’s not for you.
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VIFLY
WHOOPSTOR V3
This is, hands down, my personal favorite Whoop battery charger today. It charges up to six packs at once. It can be powered off of USB-C, barrel plug, or XT60, so you can use your big flight packs (up to 6S voltage) to charge your Whoop packs if you’re away from power. It has both PH2.0 and BT2.0 plugs. It charges both standard lipo and HV lipos, but all ports must use the same type–no mixing. And it charges at up to 1.3 amps per channel, so you can hit 2C or even 3C on your batteries if you need to get up in the air quickly.
But the single feature that puts this charger over the top for me is that it has storage mode! Lipos hate being left at full charge or empty for long periods of time. Most lipo chargers have a storage mode, which puts the packs at a safe 3.8v / cell so they can be stored for a long time without damage. But Whoop chargers don’t have this. So your Whoop packs get left fully charged (or empty) and before you know it, they’re worn out. With the Whoopstor, you can put your Whoop packs to storage voltage, the same as you do with your larger packs, and extend their life.
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SERIES CHARGING BOARDS
FOR 1S WHOOP BATTERIES
Let’s get one thing straight: These are NOT battery chargers. They’re series charging boards that let you easily charge your Whoop packs on your big-battery charger. Plug in your Whoop packs to the board. Plug the board into your charger as if it were a regular battery. The charger will auto-detect the number of “cells” (Whoop packs) plugged in, and then you can charge, discharge, and storage charge, just like normal. The charger will top off and balance the “cells”, and at the end of the cycle, you’ll be left with all the packs at whatever voltage you desire.
There are some quirks to this method, and many people prefer a simple set-and-forget dedicated Whoop battery charger. But these series boards offer functions like discharge and storage charge that most Whoop chargers leave out.
The Happymodel board supports only up to four packs at a time, while the Fractal Engineering board supports up to six.
The Fractal Engineering board sold at WeBleedFPV is the only one of these that comes with the BT2.0 plugs installed. The others have empty spots where you can solder your own BT2.0 plugs, but you have to source them and solder them yourself.
Find this product at these vendors:
Purchase at RaceDayQuads – Happymodel Board
Purchase at NewBeeDrone – Fractal Parallel Board
Purchase at weBLEEDfpv – Fractal Parallel Board
Purchase at Banggood – Happymodel Board
NEWBEEDRONE
NECTAR INJECTOR
This charger charges up to four packs at once. Each bank of two ports can be separately set to HV or normal lipo charging, so you can mix cells if you need to. The charger will trickle charge cells that have been discharged too low, to bring them back to life. It’s powered from any 5v/2A USB source, via micro-USB plug. The charger has PH2.0 connectors, but can be used with BT2.0 batteries if you buy adapter cables.
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TINY WHOOP
STORAGE DISCHARGER
Leaving packs charged for a long period of time wears them out and makes them perform worse. Plug your Whoop packs into this little gadget and it’ll take them down to a safe 3.8v over the course of a couple of hours.
The main drawback of this device is its cost. You’ll want several to bring your packs down to storage in a reasonable amount of time, and by the time you’ve bought four or five, you could pick up the ViFly WhoopStor and have a more functional solution. But the tiny keychain size of the Tiny Whoop discharger is certainly appealing.
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Tiny Whoop gates come in a variety of sizes, shapes, and colors to add some spice to your home race track or freestyle spot. Sure you can DIY gates from cardboard or other things around the house, but these are collapsible for easy storage and made from soft materials like ripstop nylon which will prevent damage to your Whoop.
NEWBEEDRONE
TINY WHOOP GATES
The NBD gates are the smallest but come in a 5 pack which is a great value if you’re looking to build elements like tunnels which are always a crowd and pilot favorite. They’re also extremely lightweight which makes hanging/mounting them a breeze.
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WEBLEEDFPV
TINY WHOOP GATES
These weBLEEDfpv gates are by far the largest, highest quality, and are actually a cloth/mesh material which is extremely durable allowing them to be used with quads bigger than tiny whoops like 3″ Tiny Trainers. The 4 different shapes that are included make it easy to name/identify each section of your race track.
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MOBILLY
TINY WHOOP GATES
For those after-dark rip sessions, weBLEEDfpv has a few soft material LED gate options but Mobilly is the king of the night with an entire website of hard plastic hexagon gates and flags. These are actually bright enough to be seen during the day indoors as well so you can Tron out your house 24/7.
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TINY WHOOP
TINY WHOOP GATES
The Tiny Whoop cube gate is almost as big as the weBLEEDfpv gates but it’s free-standing and you can tie multiples together to make a vertical dive cube which is a personal favorite. You can also zip apart one of the sides to create 4 connected gates in a row to hang down for a ladder type of element.
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