Basically all of the links on this page are affiliate links. I receive a commission (at no extra cost to you) if you make a purchase after clicking one of the affiliate links below. Read our Affiliate Link Policy for more information.

If this will be your first time ordering from Banggood, you should know a few things.


The flight controller (FC) is the brains of the quadcopter. It receives your commands from the receiver and translates that into motor outputs that make the quadcopter fly. Modern flight controllers may also include accessories like voltage regulators, and on-screen-display (OSD), a power-distribution-board (PDB) and more.

Flight controllers on this page come in two flavors: those with an F4 processor and those with an F7 processor. F4 is capable of running all Betaflight functions today, but not at the absolute fastest loop times that Betaflight supports. F4 is more than sufficient for most pilots. F7 is a bit more expensive and gives a little more future-proofing.


Purchase at RaceDayQuads

I’m more picky about flight controllers than almost any other part on a quad. That’s why I’m so thrilled that RaceDayQuads invited me to design the JBF7 from the ground up exactly how I wanted it. I started with big, easy to solder to pads. The pad layout focuses on flexibility and ease of use. Although it’s got plugs for an ESC and a DJI Air Unit, you can also direct-solder if you prefer. There’s an SD card slot for all the blackbox logging you could want. Dual gyros for smoother flight (or just having a spare gyro if one of them is damaged in a crash). And a detailed user manual with wiring diagrams and instructions for getting started.

Just because this is my own FC doesn’t mean it’s right for everybody. It has i2c pads for a compass, but there is no on board barometer and no iNav target. A few people have complained about the lack of a USB-C connector. It’s designed for use with a 4 in 1 ESC, not individual ESC’s. And if you’re on the strictest of budgets you can save a little money by buying one of the F4 flight controllers, like the Diatone stack on this page. Other than that, I think this is one of the best FC’s you can get today.


Purchase at RaceDayQuads – Standard / AIO
Purchase at Banggood – Standard / AIO
Purchase at GetFPV – Standard / AIO

The Kakute F7 has two really innovative features. First, the gyro chip is mounted on foam for vibration isolation. This makes tuning easier and improves flight characteristics, especially on quads where it’s not possible to soft-mount the whole flight controller board.

Second, the Kakute has an incredibly awesome user manual that takes even an absolute beginner through every step of wiring it up. Who was it who wrote the user manual for the Kakuate F7 AIO? Oh yeah. It was me!

If you’re into blackbox logging, the Kakute has an SD card reader, which means you have essentially unlimited storage for logs.

The ribbon cable that connects the gyro to the flight controller is pretty sturdy. But there are a couple of solder pads nearby to it, and you’ll want to be really careful not to touch the ribbon cable with your soldering iron when you’re working on the board.

If you want to use the Kakute F7 with individual ESCs, get the AIO version. It has built-in PDB so the ESCs and battery lead can solder right to it. If you’re using a 4-in-1 ESC, buy the standard (non-AIO) Kakute F7 and use its 4-in-1 socket to connect it to your ESC.

Matek F722 SE Flight Controller

Matek is one of the best flight controller designers working today. They pack an unbelievable number of features into a board, while still keeping the pad layout intuitive. Although they don’t have printed manuals, their web site has comprehensive documentation for all of their products.

The F722-SE packs in all the features you could want from an F7 flight controller and two new features that almost nobody else has: camera switching and vTX power switching. That’s right: you can turn the power to the vTX on and off using an Aux switch on your transmitter. This is better than pit mode! It works with any vTX! And it completely powers down your vTX so you know for sure you can’t interfere with anybody. Camera switching means you can install two cameras and switch between them using an Aux switch. This is great for planes with downward facing cameras or a “cheaterkwad” build with both a front and rear-facing camera that allows the pilot to fly backwards.

Another great feature of the F722-SE is that it supports iNav firmware. If you intend to use GPS-assisted flight, iNav supports features that Betaflight doesn’t, such as GPS loiter, true return-to-home, and waypoint functionality.


Purchase at GetFPV – FC only / FC & ESC Combo
Purchase at RaceDayQuads – FC only / FC & ESC Combo
Purchase at Banggood – FC & ESC Combo

The Diatone Mamba F722S has all the standard features most people want in a Betaflight F7 flight controller, including lots of UARTS and dataflash chip for blackbox logging. Here’s what puts the Diatone F722S over the top. Built-in LED controller allows you to easily use programmable LEDs without having to mess with Betaflight’s clunky, complicated LED interface. Just press a button on the FC to change LED colors! And built-in Bluetooth radio means you can program the FC with your phone, without ever plugging in USB.


Purchase at Banggood
Purchase at RaceDayQuads


The Rush Tank Core F7 packs full-size performance and features into a compact package that once upon a time would have been reserved for micro-sized builds. But today, even builders of 5″ quads are choosing 20mm stacks like this one. Why not? It’s small enough to fit even in tighter frames without a hassle. It’s got an F7 processor that can run all of the latest features of modern firmwares. And its gyro chip is soft-mounted for smooth and precise flight.
The Rush Core F7 uses plugs for camera, receiver, and LED. If you strongly prefer solder pads, this isn’t the FC for you.

RushFPV is known best for building video transmitters. This stack comes with the Rush Tank Mini, which goes up to 800 mW output power. Not bad for a 20mm sized vTX!

If you go with this FC, you will need to use a frame with 20mm mounting holes. 20mm was originally the domain of smaller frames, but more and more 5″ frames are including 20mm holes. Some frames are still sized exclusively for 30mm mounting, and they wouldn’t work with this FC.


Purchase at RaceDayQuads
Purchase at NewBeeDrone


The Diatone Mamba Power Tower is a flight controller and ESC stack, for the same price as many flight controllers all by themselves. Frankly, that alone made me suspicious of its quality. But Diatone has a great track record of reliable hardware. If they say this ESC can do 30 amps continuous, then I believe them. (Mostly)

The F405 flight controller has almost anything a pilot could want, including both a 5v and a 9v regulator, and up to 6S input voltage. The fact that it’s an F4 means you don’t have quite as much flexibility with peripherals and you won’t be able to run the newest firmware features at the fastest speeds. But considering how inexpensive this stack is, many people will forgive these limitations.

Here’s the big question that will stop some from buying it: is the ESC trustworthy? When you consider that a budget-grade 4-in-1 ESC could cost $45 all by itself, seeing an ESC and FC together for that price has go to make you wonder. Here’s one way to think about it: if the ESC does fry itself, just imagine that you paid $45 for a pretty solid flight controller, and forget about the ESC. It’s not such a bad deal.


The ESC makes the motors spin. BLHeli_S ESCs have okay performance but lack some features that pilots today usually expect. BLHeli_32 is the latest and greatest. In terms of flight performance, there isn’t much difference between them, but BLHeli_32 is where most development is going now, and we recommend that you use it if possible. BLHeli_S ESC’s are usually a bit cheaper, so if you don’t care about the “advanced features” and just want to fly, BLHeli_S might be for you.

Most pilots today choose a 4-in-1 ESC. This form-factor puts all four ESC’s on a single board, typically installed directly underneath the flight controller. The advantage of a 4-in-1 ESC is faster build with fewer solder joints; typically it will just plug right into the FC. The disadvantage is that if you fry a 4-in-1 ESC, you have to replace all four ESC’s at once instead of just one, which is more expensive.

If you use a 4-in-1 ESC, it’s best to buy one that is intended for use with your FC, since this guarantees that they will be compatible. You can use any 4-in-1 ESC with almost any FC if you’re willing to build your own wire harness to connect them–but that sort of defeats the point. That being said, some ESC’s are so good that I would consider using them with any FC.

If you use individual ESC’s, make sure to buy an “all-in-one” (AIO) style FC.

One of the biggest challenges in buying an ESC is choosing the right size. Here’s some general advice. ESC’s rated for 20 amps are the absolute minimum you should choose for a 5” build. ESCs rated for 25 amps are good for most 5″ props with motors of size 2306, 2207, or smaller. Motors may pull more current than this at full throttle, but you typically won’t spend a lot of time at full throttle, and the ESC’s “burst rating” can handle these short surges. Higher-rated ESCs should be selected if you are using larger motors, higher-kv motors, if you plan to spend a lot of time at full throttle, or if you just want a bit more headroom to help ensure that the ESC doesn’t burn out. Lately, we are seeing ESC’s rated up to 50 or 60 amps. Although it’s unlikely that most pilots will pull this much current, the additional head-room makes the ESC less likely to burn out when flown hard.


Purchase at RaceDayQuads
Purchase at GetFPV
Purchase at ReadyMadeRC
Purchase at Amazon


Alex Vanover is one of the fastest pilots on the planet. This was his go-to ESC for the 2019 racing season. (I say “was” because by the time you read this, he’ll probably have moved on to something newer.) Personally, I haven’t tested this ESC, but if Vanover wasn’t able to kill it in a season of racing, then that’s all I need to hear to put it on this list.

This ESC has a 5v regulator on board, but most modern flight controllers won’t need it, since they take vBat input and use their own built-in regulator, rather than relying on the ESC. If your FC uses the ESC’s 5v regulator (such as the BrainFPV Radix), be careful because it’s only rated for 600 mA. This is enough to run a FC, camera, and receiver, but you shouldn’t run a 5v vTX, LEDs, or other high-powered accessories from the Hobbywing ESC regulator.

T-Motor F55A Pro ESC

The biggest reason most people hesitate to buy 4-in-1 ESC’s is fear about their durability. If a 4-in-1 smokes one FET, you’ve lost the entire cost of the ESC. If you plan to push your ESC beyond typical limits, or if you’re willing to pay for that extra nth degree of reliability, the T-Motor F55A is the ESC for you.

The F55A is rated for 55 amps sustained current draw on 6S voltage, with surges up to 75 amps. Let’s be real: there are hardly any quadcopters out there that can actually push this ESC to its limit. But that’s okay because running an ESC at its limit eventually leads to a dead ESC.

In the world of ESC’s, there’s no such thing as a 100% guarantee of reliability. But the T-Motor F55A comes as close to a perfectly bulletproof ESC as I can imagine.

This ESC supports blheli32 ESC telemetry, but it does NOT output current sense data via telemetry. If you want current sense, use the “CURT” pin, and connect it to your FC’s analog current sense input. The TLM pin only carries rpm and temperature information.

The Pro II version of this ESC adds soft-mounting gummies. This gives some shock absorption to help protect your investment in a crash. One other significant change is that the BEC output has been changed from 5v to 10v. For most builds, this is a good thing, but if your FC needs a 5v input, you’ll want to stick with the original F55A instead of the Pro II.


Purchase at GetFPV
Purchase at RaceDayQuads
Purchase at Banggood

The biggest thing that separates good ESC’s from bad ones is not performance. Almost any blheli32 ESC will perform about the same as any other, right up until they die. Durability is what separates most good ESC’s from bad ones today.

That’s why the T-Motor Velox is my “cheapest worth having” ESC. It’s manufactured by T-Motor, who makes some of the toughest, most reliable ESC’s you can get today. And I’m willing to bet their cheaper Velox line is probably tougher than some other ESC’s twice the price.

Like most modern ESC’s, the Velox does not have a 5v BEC on board. If your flight controller requires 5v input, you’ll want to steer away from this one. The Velox has both VBAT and 10V output (some pilots power their video transmitter directly from the 10V output for cleaner video).


Purchase at RaceDayQuads – 5S version / 6S version
Purchase at GetFPV – 5S version


When T-Motor released its line of ESC’s, my first thought was, “What makes them think they can make good ESC’s, just because they make good motors?” I couldn’t be happier to find out I was wrong. T-Motor ESC’s are some of the best available.

What makes them so good? It’s not their raw performance. The truth is, most Blheli_32 ESC’s perform very well. The biggest thing that makes T-Motor ESC’s stand out is their durability. They’re as close to absolutely bulletproof as an ESC can get. And they’ve never had any “oopsies” at the factory that result in a bad batch.

The F35A is rated for 6S voltage and is has a more than high enough amp rating for almost any application. If you want to spend significantly more for a bit of additional confidence, buy the F45A instead.


Purchase at GetFPV – 25A / 30A / 30A HV
Purchase at RaceDayQuads – 20A / 25A / 30A HV
Purchase at – 30A HV

Spedix ES30 HV ESC

These ESC’s were my “top of the line BLHeli_S” pick until recently. Then I noticed that they’re basically the same price as the “cheapest worth having” ESC’s. I guess BLHeli_32 ESC’s are so popular that now, even really great BLHeli_S ESC’s are inexpensive.

Given the choice between Racerstar ESC’s and Spedix, you should buy Spedix 100% of the time. Why? Reliability. Reliability means the ESC is going to handle the abuse of mini quad life without burning up or dying out. Spedix ESCs have great performance, decent price, and spectacular reliability.

So… umm… why are Racerstar even still on the list? Part of the reason is that I’m suspicious of whether this Spedix price drop will hold up, whereas Racerstar ESC’s have been a solid budget choice forever.


Purchase at Banggood – 20A / 30A

Racestar Lite ESC

These ESCs are today’s choice of the beginner-on-a-budget. Here’s the bottom line: they will 100% get you into the air, and their performance is more than adequate. But they have a small chance of burning up for literally no reason except that they’re cheap (and I don’t mean inexpensive). In fact, don’t just buy four. Buy five or six so you’ll have a spare. And at that point, maybe you’d rather just buy a better ESC.

These ESC’s are rated up to 4S voltage only, so if you are using 5S or 6S batteries, they won’t work.


Purchase at GetFPV
Purchase at Amazon

T-Motor F45A ESC

When pro pilots want an ESC that they can absolutely trust in any conditions, they turn to the T-Motor F45A. But for many, the eye-watering $30 price will be too much to handle.


I could make a whole web site just about motors. But I don’t have to, because somebody else did. If you want a primer on motor specs (size, kv, etc.) check out this interview I did with Ryan Harrell. For now, I’m just going to try to cut through the smoke and make a few recommendations.

One of the biggest debates in FPV right now is whether beginners should choose 4S or 6S batteries. In my opinion, 6S has a small performance advantage, but it’s a bit more expensive and more likely to blow ESC’s when pushed hard. If you go with 4S, choose a motor between about 2300 kv and 2700kv. If you go with 6S, choose a motor between about 1600 and 1800 kv. If you’re one of the rare people running 5S, then 2100kv motors are for you.

Emax is seriously messing up the whole FPV motor market with their Eco II line. As far as I can tell, they are making a $22 motor and selling it for $12 just because they want to be taken seriously as a motor manufacturer. I have no idea what the actual motivation is, but the Eco II is a seriously great value. It even has premium EZO bearings (an area where other budget motors often skimp).

At the time of this writing, the Eco II comes in only three sizes: 2306 and 2207 ideal for 5″ or maybe 6″ props), and 2807 (ideal for 7″ props). For 5″ props, choose 1700kv for longer flight time on 6S batteries, 1900 kv for more power on 6S batteries, or 2400 kv for 4S batteries. For the 2807, choose 1300 kv for long range cruising on 6S batteries, 1500 kv for a bit more power on 6S, and 1700 kv for 4S, or for 6S builds intended for aggressive freestyle.

If the Eco II is available in a size that you want, from a store that you want, it’s hard to argue that you should buy anything else. Nearly everything else in this price range is inferior. And motors that cost twice as much may be better, but are they twice as good? Especially if you’re just going to destroy them in a crash.


Purchase at GetFPV
Purchase at Banggood
Purchase at RaceDayQuads
Purchase at Amazon

The first thing that makes these motors special is that iFlight makes them, and iFlight makes great motors with innovative features like a vibration-damping bumper to keep them running smooth and protect bearings from shocks. The reason the Cyber Xing find a place on this list is their 10mm bearings. Most motors in this size class have 9mm bearings–1mm smaller. The larger bearings on the Cyber Xing motors improve durability and keep the motors spinning smoother, longer.

They also kind of look badass. Or garish and awful. Okay, I honestly don’t know which way to go on the appearance.

Choose 1777kv for typical 6S, 1999 kv for 5S or high-power, shorter-flight-time 6S, and 2555 kv for 4S.


Purchase at GetFPV
Purchase at Banggood
Purchase at Amazon


iFlight makes some of the most beautiful and well-crafted motors available today. Their distinctive curved bell and spoked design increases durability and looks awesome. They come in bold colors and designs unlike almost any other available. Design features include titanium alloy shaft and a damped bearing which helps eliminate vibration due to vertical play. It also absorbs shocks, helping to prevent damage.

Here’s why I’ve named a 2208-sized motor as “top of the line freestyle”. Freestyle pilots care about smooth handling, and that comes from a torquey motor. When the motor has enough torque to spin the prop, it can respond to changing aerodynamic situations smoothly. With a big, toruqey motor, you don’t have to use wimpy props just to get good handling. You can have good handling AND lots of thrust.

The tradeoff of the 2208 motor is that it is heavier and draws more current than the 2207 size. So you’ll need to cut weight elsewhere or use the highest quality batteries you can find.

The T-Motor F-series has been one of the best FPV motors you can buy for as long as it’s been made. The F60 is 2207 in size–perfectly suited for a 5″ racing quad–and comes in three kv ratings. The star of the show is the 1950 kv, which, when paired with a 6S battery, produces ridiculous power and acceleration. The 2550 kv gives nearly the same results on 4S, but few racers are running 4S these days. The 1750 kv is also for 6S, but gives a little more control at the expense of top-end speed. Keep in mind that many racers today are choosing less powerful motors and props for longer flight time and more precision in turns. The thinking is that you seldom go to full throttle on MultiGP-style race courses anyway, so higher power is wasted.

T-Motor continues to improve the design of these motors. The 4th generation further lightens the motor by removing material from the base and re-designs the bell to improve durability.

These are some of the best motors you can buy, and the price reflects it. If you’re a beginner who crashes a lot, you probably should buy something cheaper, because it’s going to be really expensive when you destroy an F60 Pro IV, and that may happen sooner rather than later.

FIVE33 2207 1960 KV

Purchase at Five33 – Single / 4-pack

The Five33 2207 motor is co-designed by Evan Turner, 2019 MultiGP Champion and 2020 Drone Racing League pro pilot. Basically, he made the motor that he wanted to fly when he races and then he slapped his company’s name on it.

The goal of this motor is to produce ridiculous power while being as light and tough as possible. It weighs 28.5 grams! For racers concerned with shaving every gram, that’s a huge advantage.

The Five33 2207 comes in only one kv rating, 1960 kv, for use with 6S batteries and 5″ props.


A prop has three main characteristics: size, pitch, and number of blades.

Size is the diameter of the prop. Quadcopters are divided into classes by the size of prop that they take. So people will refer to a five-inch quad, a six-inch quad, a four-inch quad, and so forth. The best general-purpose prop size for an acro or racing quad is 5″. All of the props on this page are 5″. There’s nothing wrong with other size props, but we have to start somewhere.

Pitch is the steepness of the angle of the blades on the prop. A low-pitch (shallow) prop will make less thrust and generally be more efficient. A high-pitch (steep) prop will make more thrust and generally draw more current from the battery. This is a drastic over-simplification, and the actual shape of the prop blade can have dramatic effects on prop performance that aren’t reflected in the pitch number. Modern props seldom have a single, fixed pitch over the length of the blade. These days, prop “pitch” is sort of a generic label to distinguish one prop design from another.

Mini quad props typically have between 2 and 4 blades. Two-blade props are most common in top-speed runs, but they aren’t ideal for general purpose use. They tend to feel a little bit “slidey” and imprecise in turns, and they don’t have as much bottom-end thrust. Four-blade props have tons of bottom-end thrust but aren’t as fast at the top end. They’re sometimes preferred by freestyle pilots who want to make a lot of abrupt moves. They’re terrible for most types of racing. Three-blade props are the most widely used both by freestyle pilots and racers. They balance precise cornering with decent bottom-end thrust and top-end speed.


The DAL Cyclone can do it all. It makes enough thrust for either racing or freestyle. It’s aggressive enough that it’ll liven up a 2300kv motor, but it won’t over-load a 2600kv motor either. It’s unbelievably durable. Even if it gets a little nicked up, it seldom breaks, and you can just keep flying it if you don’t mine a few vibrations.

I’ve gotta be honest: the Cyclone is pretty dated. There are newer props of better design, and they’re not much more expensive than the Cyclone either. But the Cyclone stays on the list because it’s inexpensive, durable, and available almost everywhere.


Purchase at RaceDayQuads – 3.1 / 3.6 / 4.1
Purchase at GetFPV – 3.1 / 3.6 / 4.1

Five inches used to be the “standard” diameter for a mini quad prop. But HQ never takes anything for granted. The 5.1 series is slightly larger in diameter than the older five-inch V1S series. The larger prop gives a bit more stability and efficiency, but not so much that it fundamentally chances the flight-feel compared to a 5″ prop. More importantly, the larger diameter increases thrust. HQ then dials down the pitch, which results in a prop that makes similar thrust to a typical 5″ prop, with more efficiency, stability, and linearity in throttle response.

It took me some time to come to appreciate the HQ 5.1 series of props. If you want a prop that knocks you back in your seat, this isn’t it. But more and more freestyle and racing pilots are choosing these props because of their longer flight time and smooth, linear response.

As usual, choose the lowest-pitch prop if you want the smoothest response at the expense of thrust, or when paired with a higher than usual kv motor. Choose the higher pitch props if you need the most thrust (especially if flying at higher altitude), if you are using lower kv motors or larger motors than usual.


Purchase at RaceDayQuads 51466 / 51499
Purchase at Banggood 51466 / 51499
Purchase at GetFPV 51466 / 51499
Purchase at Amazon 51499


I first came to love the Hurricane 51499 prop when I was searching for the best prop for my JB2407 motor. Because my quad was heavier, it was loose and imprecise in corners. The 51499 has razor sharp handling in corners and plenty of speed in the straights.

Although the Hurricane line was designed for racing, I like them for freestyle. They are not as smooth and controllable in the low end as some pilots would prefer. This is a great prop for somebody who wants to punch the throttle and get slammed back in their seat.

The Hurricanes are also designed to be durable. The hub is reinforced so that, after a crash, you can just bend them back and keep flying. This is advertised as making them suitable for racers, but I know freestyle pilots will appreciate it just as much.

If you have big, torquey motors and you want the most thrust and sharpest handling, choose the 51499 size. But you’ll need really healthy batteries or a really lightweight quad in order to keep you flight time up. The 51466 version is slightly easier on the battery, and may be a better choice for smaller motors, or higher-kv motors.


Purchase at GetFPV
Purchase at Amazon


If you’re looking for the ultimate in freestyle smoothness, this is the prop for you. It’s extremely light, at just under 4 grams, which means it can change speed rapidly in response to propwash oscillation, even if you haven’t got an ultra torquey motor. It’s still reasonably durable, although not as durable as heavier props can be.

This is definitely NOT a general-purpose prop! It’s 4.8″ in diameter and only 3.8 pitch, which means it’s going to make much less thrust than a typical 5″ prop would. It’s best paired with a higher kv motor, such as Johnny’s own 2207/2700kv from Lumenier. And don’t bother trying to pair this prop with motors bigger than about 2306 or 2207. The additional torque of the larger, heavier motor isn’t needed.


Purchase at GetFPV – S3 / S4 / S5
Purchase at RaceDayQuads – S3 / S4 / S5
Purchase at Amazon – S3 / S4 / S5

I always thought these props were overrated until I tried them on Mr. Steele’s actual quad. Then I got it. These props are terrible on heavier freestyle builds. That’s not what they’re made for. But on lightweight freestyle builds (5″ quads under 650 grams All Up Weight) they come alive.

Have you ever dove over an obstacle and then needed to catch yourself precisely at the bottom to fly through a gap? That’s where these props excel. You can find the exact throttle position you need quickly and precisely, without over-shooting or pulsing the throttle. They’re also easy on the battery for extended flight time. The tradeoff is that they lack the razor-sharp cornering and neck-snapping acceleration you get with higher-pitch props.

These props are best when used with a wider motor like a 2306. When used with a 2207 or 2208 motor, the taller stator’s non-linear throttle curve doesn’t fit as well with the Ethix props’ low-throttle linearity and precision.

Steele recommends the S3 for quads between 500-650g, up to about 3000′ above sea level. The S4 gives a little more thrust, especially suited for altitudes up to 10,000′. The S5 has the highest pitch and is for heavier quads up to 750g (such as carrying a GoPro). The S5 is also 18% gray to make it less visible if it’s in the camera’s view.

The Gemfan 51477 is the perfect prop to pair with larger motors like 2407 and 2208, or even bigger!

Many freestyle pilots today are moving to larger motors, which allows the use of heavier props without compromising handling. This gives the best of both worlds: punch, speed, and smoothness. But only if the motor is paired with the right prop. A light prop doesn’t demand the torque that the bigger motors put out, and it doesn’t make enough thrust to counteract their weight. Too heavy a prop drives amp-draw through the roof, shortening flight times and killing batteries.

The Gemfan Hurricane 51477 hits the sweet spot between those extremes. It’s got enough pitch to make the most of the motors’ torque, without going overboard like the 51499 might. And its unique blade profile gives reasonably good control even at low throttle (something high-pitch props are often bad at.)

Of course I also love to run these props on smaller motors like 2207 and 2306. It makes great power, but the reduced torque of the motor means the prop isn’t as smooth and responsive as it is on larger motors.


Crashing a quad somewhere and not being able to find it is heartbreaking. There are lots of techniques for finding a lost quad, but most of them require the battery to be plugged in. What if the battery ejects in the crash? That’s where these lost model buzzers come in. They have a built-in 1-cell LiPo that charges up while you’re flying. When the lipo disconnects, they begin to beep. LOUDLY. Way louder than a standard buzzer. That way, you can always find your quad, even if it’s lost power. BONUS! All of these buzzers also act like your normal quad buzzer, which means you have an EXTRA LOUD buzzer that you can activate using an aux switch whenever you need to.


The Vifly Finder is my personal favorite. It’s the loudest of the ones on this page. The others sound loud until you are in the middle of a field trying to find them and then suddenly you wish they were louder. The Finder has a push-button for disarming, but if the button is difficult to access, it can also be disarmed by plugging and un-plugging the LiPo. The Finder V2 added a LiPo that has a flashing LED to give a visual indicator of the quad’s location. It also added a photo sensor that causes the quad to only beep during the day, to save power and avoid annoying your neighbors. The main disadvantage of the Finder is that it’s about twice the size of the others (due to its giant buzzer), so it may not be the best choice for very tight builds.


Purchase at Banggood


The Lucky Buzzer comes in under $10. It’s much smaller than the Vifly. It’s got a disarm button and an LED that flashes. One thing that makes it stand out is that it’s got configurable alarm delay and frequency. The Lucky Buzzer’s battery life is shorter than the Vifly due to its small battery.