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This page is regularly updated as new products come out. This page was last updated May 18, 2020.
The flight controller (FC) is the brains of the quadcopter. It receives your commands from the receiver and translates that into motor outputs that make the quadcopter fly. Modern flight controllers may also include accessories like voltage regulators, and on-screen-display (OSD), a power-distribution-board (PDB) and more.
Flight controllers on this page come in two flavors: those with an F4 processor and those with an F7 processor. F4 is capable of running all Betaflight functions today, but not at the absolute fastest loop times that Betaflight supports. F4 is more than sufficient for most pilots. F7 is a bit more expensive and gives a little more future-proofing.
CHEAPEST I’D RECOMMEND
MY VERY OWN…
JBARDWELL F4 AIO
If there is one product that I care about, it’s flight controllers. I spend a lot of energy nit-picking the feature sets of flight controllers. So I jumped at the chance to design a flight controller of my own.
The JBardwell F4 AIO is basically my perfect flight controller. It supports all major Betaflight functions, such as SBUS, SmartPort, SmartAudio, ESC Telemetry, and FPV Camera Remote Control, simultaneously. Two inverted UARTs so no hassling with uninvert hacks. Built in Camera Control pad means you can simply wire up your FPV camera… no additional resistors and capacitors needed. And of course, it’s got an dataflash chip for Blackbox.
Under the hood, the power system has been designed for cleanest video and minimal gyro noise. It’s got an MPU6000 gyro–the “good one”. And the power supply includes a well-filtered 9v output for your vTX and FPV camera.
For more about the product, check out the product page, and definitely dig into the 20 PAGE USER MANUAL that I wrote (linked on the product page).
Of course, you can hit me up if you have any questions.
Products with a prominent person’s name on them usually come with a premium price. You’ll be glad to know that I’m not going to gouge you for this board. The price is $35, the same as the “cheapest I’d recommend” board that used to fill this slot before my board came out.
F7 POWER / EASY BUILD
HOLYBRO KAKUTE F7 AND F7 AIO
The Kakute F7 has two really innovative features. First, the gyro chip is mounted on foam for vibration isolation. This makes tuning easier and improves flight characteristics, especially on quads where it’s not possible to soft-mount the whole flight controller board.
Second, the Kakute has an incredibly awesome user manual that takes even an absolute beginner through every step of wiring it up. Who was it who wrote the user manual for the Kakuate F7 AIO? Oh yeah. It was me!
If you’re into blackbox logging, the Kakute has an SD card reader, which means you have essentially unlimited storage for logs.
The ribbon cable that connects the gyro to the flight controller is pretty sturdy. But there are a couple of solder pads nearby to it, and you’ll want to be really careful not to touch the ribbon cable with your soldering iron when you’re working on the board.
If you want to use the Kakute F7 with individual ESCs, get the AIO version. It has built-in PDB so the ESCs and battery lead can solder right to it. If you’re using a 4-in-1 ESC, buy the standard (non-AIO) Kakute F7 and use its 4-in-1 socket to connect it to your ESC.
TOP OF THE LINE
Matek is one of the best flight controller designers working today. They pack an unbelievable number of features into a board, while still keeping the pad layout intuitive. Although they don’t have printed manuals, their web site has comprehensive documentation for all of their products.
The F722-SE packs in all the features you could want from an F7 flight controller and two new features that almost nobody else has: camera switching and vTX power switching. That’s right: you can turn the power to the vTX on and off using an Aux switch on your transmitter. This is better than pit mode! It works with any vTX! And it completely powers down your vTX so you know for sure you can’t interfere with anybody. Camera switching means you can install two cameras and switch between them using an Aux switch. This is great for planes with downward facing cameras or a “cheaterkwad” build with both a front and rear-facing camera that allows the pilot to fly backwards.
Another great feature of the F722-SE is that it supports iNav firmware. If you intend to use GPS-assisted flight, iNav supports features that Betaflight doesn’t, such as GPS loiter, true return-to-home, and waypoint functionality.
The Lux F7 Ultimate is almost identical to the Matek F722-SE shown earlier on this page. In fact, they even use the same Betaflight firmware target. So their functionality is the same, but their layout is different. The Lux F7 does not have a built in PDB, and it has larger solder-pads, but half of them are on the under-side of the board meaning you have to turn it over to solder to them.
If you plan to use individual ESCs, the Matek F722 is the best choice. If using a 4-in-1 ESC, consider the Lux F7 Ultimate.
The Rush Tank Core F7 packs full-size performance and features into a compact package that once upon a time would have been reserved for micro-sized builds. But today, even builders of 5″ quads are choosing 20mm stacks like this one. Why not? It’s small enough to fit even in tighter frames without a hassle. It’s got an F7 processor that can run all of the latest features of modern firmwares. And its gyro chip is soft-mounted for smooth and precise flight.
The Rush Core F7 uses plugs for camera, receiver, and LED. If you strongly prefer solder pads, this isn’t the FC for you.
RushFPV is known best for building video transmitters. This stack comes with the Rush Tank Mini, which goes up to 800 mW output power. Not bad for a 20mm sized vTX!
If you go with this FC, you will need to use a frame with 20mm mounting holes. 20mm was originally the domain of smaller frames, but more and more 5″ frames are including 20mm holes. Some frames are still sized exclusively for 30mm mounting, and they wouldn’t work with this FC.
BEST CHOICE FOR TIGHT BUDGETS
DIATONE MAMBA POWER TOWER F405
The Diatone Mamba Power Tower is a flight controller and ESC stack, for the same price as many flight controllers all by themselves. Frankly, that alone made me suspicious of its quality. But Diatone has a great track record of reliable hardware. If they say this ESC can do 30 amps continuous, then I believe them. (Mostly)
The F405 flight controller has almost anything a pilot could want, including both a 5v and a 9v regulator, and up to 6S input voltage. The fact that it’s an F4 means you don’t have quite as much flexibility with peripherals and you won’t be able to run the newest firmware features at the fastest speeds. But considering how inexpensive this stack is, many people will forgive these limitations.
Here’s the big question that will stop some from buying it: is the ESC trustworthy? When you consider that a budget-grade 4-in-1 ESC could cost $45 all by itself, seeing an ESC and FC together for that price has go to make you wonder. Here’s one way to think about it: if the ESC does fry itself, just imagine that you paid $45 for a pretty solid flight controller, and forget about the ESC. It’s not such a bad deal.
Airbot has been on the forefront of flight controller design almost as long as flight controllers have existed. The OmniNXT is their flagship unit. With an F7 processor, it can run all Betaflight features even at the fastest gyro sampling rates. It’s got an 8v regulator for camera and vTX (lower voltage provides more filtering for cleaner video). A ribbon cable allows direct connection to Airbot’s Typhoon ESC for a no-solder connection.
The OmniNXT sports dual gyros: an MPU6000 for low-noise 8 KHz sampling and an ICM 20608 for sampling up to 32 kHz. The gyros are soft-mounted inside a protective acrylic cover to prevent them from getting jarred. The ribbon cable going to the gyros is well protected from damage.
Airbot flight controllers are feature-packed and have efficient, functional layout. But they may be a little challenging for a beginner to build. The sheer choices can be overwhelming. Figuring out the wiring can be tough even though Airbot makes detailed wiring diagrams. Some of the soldering required is tough for beginners due to small pad sizes.
ELECTRONIC SPEED CONTROLLERS (ESC)
The ESC makes the motors spin. BLHeli_S ESCs have okay performance but lack some features that pilots today usually expect. BLHeli_32 is the latest and greatest. In terms of flight performance, there isn’t much difference between them, but BLHeli_32 is where most development is going now, and we recommend that you use it if possible. BLHeli_S ESC’s are usually a bit cheaper, so if you don’t care about the “advanced features” and just want to fly, BLHeli_S might be for you.
Most pilots today choose a 4-in-1 ESC. This form-factor puts all four ESC’s on a single board, typically installed directly underneath the flight controller. The advantage of a 4-in-1 ESC is faster build with fewer solder joints; typically it will just plug right into the FC. The disadvantage is that if you fry a 4-in-1 ESC, you have to replace all four ESC’s at once instead of just one, which is more expensive.
If you use a 4-in-1 ESC, it’s best to buy one that is intended for use with your FC, since this guarantees that they will be compatible. You can use any 4-in-1 ESC with almost any FC if you’re willing to build your own wire harness to connect them–but that sort of defeats the point. That being said, some ESC’s are so good that I would consider using them with any FC.
If you use individual ESC’s, make sure to buy an “all-in-one” (AIO) style FC.
One of the biggest challenges in buying an ESC is choosing the right size. Here’s some general advice. ESC’s rated for 20 amps are the absolute minimum you should choose for a 5” build. ESCs rated for 25 amps are good for most 5″ props with motors of size 2306, 2207, or smaller. Motors may pull more current than this at full throttle, but you typically won’t spend a lot of time at full throttle, and the ESC’s “burst rating” can handle these short surges. Higher-rated ESCs should be selected if you are using larger motors, higher-kv motors, if you plan to spend a lot of time at full throttle, or if you just want a bit more headroom to help ensure that the ESC doesn’t burn out. Lately, we are seeing ESC’s rated up to 50 or 60 amps. Although it’s unlikely that most pilots will pull this much current, the additional head-room makes the ESC less likely to burn out when flown hard.
MID-PRICE BLHELI_32 ESC
When T-Motor released its line of ESC’s, my first thought was, “What makes them think they can make good ESC’s, just because they make good motors?” I couldn’t be happier to find out I was wrong. T-Motor ESC’s are some of the best available.
What makes them so good? It’s not their raw performance. The truth is, most Blheli_32 ESC’s perform very well. The biggest thing that makes T-Motor ESC’s stand out is their durability. They’re as close to absolutely bulletproof as an ESC can get. And they’ve never had any “oopsies” at the factory that result in a bad batch.
The F35A is rated for 6S voltage and is has a more than high enough amp rating for almost any application. If you want to spend significantly more for a bit of additional confidence, buy the F45A instead.
TOP OF THE LINE, BUDGET PRICE?!?!
These ESC’s were my “top of the line BLHeli_S” pick until recently. Then I noticed that they’re basically the same price as the “cheapest worth having” ESC’s. I guess BLHeli_32 ESC’s are so popular that now, even really great BLHeli_S ESC’s are inexpensive.
Given the choice between Racerstar ESC’s and Spedix, you should buy Spedix 100% of the time. Why? Reliability. Reliability means the ESC is going to handle the abuse of mini quad life without burning up or dying out. Spedix ESCs have great performance, decent price, and spectacular reliability.
So… umm… why are Racerstar even still on the list? Part of the reason is that I’m suspicious of whether this Spedix price drop will hold up, whereas Racerstar ESC’s have been a solid budget choice forever.
These ESCs are today’s choice of the beginner-on-a-budget. Here’s the bottom line: they will 100% get you into the air, and their performance is more than adequate. But they have a small chance of burning up for literally no reason except that they’re cheap (and I don’t mean inexpensive). In fact, don’t just buy four. Buy five or six so you’ll have a spare. And at that point, maybe you’d rather just buy a better ESC.
These ESC’s are rated up to 4S voltage only, so if you are using 5S or 6S batteries, they won’t work.
When I started making my own branded products, I swore I would never say my product was best just because it put money in my pocket. The truth is, the “best” product is different for different people. But I truly believe my ESC is the best for most people. Here’s why.
The Bardwell ESC is $50, which puts it firmly in the “budget” category. There are cheaper, but reliability issues keep me from recommending them. We’ve tested the Bardwell ESC in the harshest conditions we can, and it just kept coming back for more, which gives it “top of the line” credentials. It runs BLHeli_32 and Dshot1200. It’s got ESC Telemetry. It supports up to 30 amps at up to 6S voltage. What more could you ask for?
If you’re using my JBF4 flight controller, this ESC will plug in directly for zero-soldering connection. It also works with other flight controllers, but you may need to re-order the wires in the plug.
Of course, no single product is best for everybody. This ESC doesn’t have a 5v regulator, so if your flight controller can’t take vBat, you might consider another ESC. This ESC also only does telemetry, not analog current sensing; if your FC is short on UARTs and can’t do ESC telemetry, another ESC might serve you better.
PROVEN BY WORLD-CLASS RACERS
HOBBYWING XROTOR MICRO 60A BLHELI32
Alex Vanover is one of the fastest pilots on the planet. This was his go-to ESC for the 2019 racing season. (I say “was” because by the time you read this, he’ll probably have moved on to something newer.) Personally, I haven’t tested this ESC, but if Vanover wasn’t able to kill it in a season of racing, then that’s all I need to hear to put it on this list.
This ESC has a 5v regulator on board, but most modern flight controllers won’t need it, since they take vBat input and use their own built-in regulator, rather than relying on the ESC. If your FC uses the ESC’s 5v regulator (such as the BrainFPV Radix), be careful because it’s only rated for 500 mA. This is enough to run a FC, camera, and receiver, but you shouldn’t run a 5v vTX, LEDs, or other high-powered accessories from the Hobbywing ESC regulator.
The biggest reason most people hesitate to buy 4-in-1 ESC’s is fear about their durability. If a 4-in-1 smokes one FET, you’ve lost the entire cost of the ESC. If you plan to push your ESC beyond typical limits, or if you’re willing to pay for that extra nth degree of reliability, the T-Motor F55A is the ESC for you.
The F55A is rated for 55 amps sustained current draw on 6S voltage, with surges up to 75 amps. Let’s be real: there are hardly any quadcopters out there that can actually push this ESC to its limit. But that’s okay because running an ESC at its limit eventually leads to a dead ESC.
In the world of ESC’s, there’s no such thing as a 100% guarantee of reliability. But the T-Motor F55A comes as close to a perfectly bulletproof ESC as I can imagine.
This ESC supports blheli32 ESC telemetry, but it does NOT output current sense data via telemetry. If you want current sense, use the “CURT” pin, and connect it to your FC’s analog current sense input. The TLM pin only carries rpm and temperature information.
The Pro II version of this ESC adds soft-mounting gummies. This gives some shock absorption to help protect your investment in a crash. One other significant change is that the BEC output has been changed from 5v to 10v. For most builds, this is a good thing, but if your FC needs a 5v input, you’ll want to stick with the original F55A instead of the Pro II.
I could make a whole web site just about motors. But I don’t have to, because somebody else did. If you want a primer on motor specs (size, kv, etc.) check out this interview I did with Ryan Harrell. For now, I’m just going to try to cut through the smoke and make a few recommendations.
One of the biggest debates in FPV right now is whether beginners should choose 4S or 6S batteries. In my opinion, 6S has a small performance advantage, but it’s a bit more expensive and more likely to blow ESC’s when pushed hard. If you go with 4S, choose a motor between about 2300 kv and 2700kv. If you go with 6S, choose a motor between about 1600 and 1800 kv. If you’re one of the rare people running 5S, then 2100kv motors are for you.
CHEAPEST WORTH HAVING
DYS SAMGUK SERIES
With the Samguk series, DYS aims to provide power and performance to budget-minded builders. One of the best features of this line is the variety in motors: there’s a size and kv rating for almost any application. A few compromises have been made to keep cost down, but especially if you’re a beginner, you’ll really appreciate how affordable it is to replace them when you crash.
My personal favorite of this line is the 2207 / 2600kv version. 2207 size gives a bit more top end with a bit less linearity in the thrust curve. This means the motors “pop” more when you hit the throttle, which I like for freestyle. The 2600kv rating will suck your batteries dry if paired with an overly aggressive prop, so if longer flight time or more aggressive prop selection is a priority, consider the 2306 / 2500 kv version.
The biggest place these motors fall short is durability and quality control. The bearings tend to wear out faster than higher-quality bearings used on more expensive motors. A few motors even come from the factory with rough bearings. The wide availability and low cost of these motors will make up for these deficiencies, for many pilots. After all, you can buy five or six of the Samguk series for the price of four premium brand motors.
In fall, 2019, DYS announced that they were going out of business. For the time being, Samguk motors are still widely available, so I’m leaving them on the list. But this is definitely something you should keep in mind if you are buying for the long run.
SLIGHTLY LESS CHEAP, MUCH MORE BETTER
3BHOBBY 2306 TRAINING MOTOR
3BHobby has a reputation for making mid-priced motors with better-than-expected quality. Now they’re aiming at the “trainer motor” segment. Trainer motors are inexpensive because you’re going to break a lot of motors while you’re training, so you might as well break cheap ones. But they offer enough performance that you may not notice a significant difference when you level up to a premium motor (if you ever do).
Compare this motor to the Samguk motors earlier on this list. The closer you get to the absolute lowest price, the more you give up. The 3B motor is a little more expensive, but it’s way better quality. Frankly, the out-of-box defect rate on the Samguks alone might make the 3B a better value.
If you need the absolute cheapest motor that will get you in the air, or if you plan to destroy LOTS of motors, the Samguk is the one you’ll buy. If you are willing to pay a little extra for a much more reliable and durable motor, the 3BHOBBY Training motor is the one for you.
MY OWN PERSONAL FAVORITE
JB SIGNATURE MOTOR
Freestyle pilots want the smoothest possible flight. They usually have to give up power to get it. Not any more. The larger stators on these motors give massive torque and responsiveness, even to aggressive props. The result: smooth, propwash-free flight and ridiculous punchouts and speed, all at the same time. These motors are best paired with higher-pitch 5″ props such as 5×4.8 or even 5050 size. On “typical” freestyle props such as 5×4 or 5×4.3, they would be under-propped and not make up for their additional weight in thrust.
The 2407 motors come in 1750kv (for 6S) and 2500 kv (for 4S). Performance is ridiculous, but if you aren’t using high-quality batteries, or if your quad is a little overweight, your flight times will suffer. The 2208 motors have slightly lower kv of 1650 and 2400, which is a bit more manageable for typical pilots. Between the two, the 2208 is my favorite for 5″ freestyle. The 2407 / 1750kv version is excellent for 6″ or 7″ cruising on 4S batteries.
If you’re looking for a freestyle motor that gives you powerful punchouts and neck-whipping acceleration, while still flying smoothly, give this one a try.
And no. They don’t come in any other colors!
TOP OF THE LINE FREESTYLE
IFLIGHT XING 2208
iFlight makes some of the most beautiful and well-crafted motors available today. Their distinctive curved bell and spoked design increases durability and looks awesome. They come in bold colors and designs unlike almost any other available. Design features include titanium alloy shaft and a damped bearing which helps eliminate vibration due to vertical play. It also absorbs shocks, helping to prevent damage.
Here’s why I’ve named a 2208-sized motor as “top of the line freestyle”. Freestyle pilots care about smooth handling, and that comes from a torquey motor. When the motor has enough torque to spin the prop, it can respond to changing aerodynamic situations smoothly. With a big, toruqey motor, you don’t have to use wimpy props just to get good handling. You can have good handling AND lots of thrust.
The tradeoff of the 2208 motor is that it is heavier and draws more current than the 2207 size. So you’ll need to cut weight elsewhere or use the highest quality batteries you can find.
TOP OF THE LINE RACING
T-MOTOR F60 PRO III 2500KV
There’s a video out there, where some guys built a 500 lb chainsaw out of a V8 engine. That’s what my original impression of this motor was: an interesting novelty, but too big and power-hungry to be practical. But then I started noticing that top racers were running these motors… and winning! So who am I to argue?
This motor is preposterous! On the T-Motor 5150 prop, it made over 1700 grams of thrust! The tradeoff is that you really have to tailor the quad around the motors, or the battery simply won’t be able to keep up. The key is extremely light weight, careful prop selection… oh, and a top notch high C-rating battery.
T-Motor continues to improve the design of these motors. The 2nd generation updated the original design to include a naked bottom (saves a few grams of weight) and anti-split knurled bell top, to keep the prop from slipping without requiring you to over-tighten the nuts. The motor also has silver-coated windings for slightly lower resistance and increased temperature rating. The 3rd generation has high-temperature silver windings, so the motor is more resistant to smoking when you bend a prop and finish the race anyway. The bell is also redesigned for improved durability.
TOP OF THE LINE RACING
PYRODRONE HYPERLITE 2207.5
I’ll be honest, I’m not much of a racer. So I asked the fastest racer I know, Evan Turner (winner of 2019 MultiGP Nationals), what motor the top racers were running. This was his answer. The fact that he’s sponsored by Pyro-Drone probably played into it a little bit. (Evan has since gone on to release his own motor, but the Hyperlite is still damn good.)
The 2722kv version is for the lightest, fastest 4S rigs.
The 2522 version is for “normal” 4S rigs.
The 2222kv version is for “normal” 5S rigs.
The 1722kv version is for 6S rigs.
A prop has three main characteristics: size, pitch, and number of blades.
Size is the diameter of the prop. Quadcopters are divided into classes by the size of prop that they take. So people will refer to a five-inch quad, a six-inch quad, a four-inch quad, and so forth. The best general-purpose prop size for an acro or racing quad is 5″. All of the props on this page are 5″. There’s nothing wrong with other size props, but we have to start somewhere.
Pitch is the steepness of the angle of the blades on the prop. A low-pitch (shallow) prop will make less thrust and generally be more efficient. A high-pitch (steep) prop will make more thrust and generally draw more current from the battery. This is a drastic over-simplification, and the actual shape of the prop blade can have dramatic effects on prop performance that aren’t reflected in the pitch number. Modern props seldom have a single, fixed pitch over the length of the blade. These days, prop “pitch” is sort of a generic label to distinguish one prop design from another.
Mini quad props typically have between 2 and 4 blades. Two-blade props are most common in top-speed runs, but they aren’t ideal for general purpose use. They tend to feel a little bit “slidey” and imprecise in turns, and they don’t have as much bottom-end thrust. Four-blade props have tons of bottom-end thrust but aren’t as fast at the top end. They’re sometimes preferred by freestyle pilots who want to make a lot of abrupt moves. They’re terrible for most types of racing. Three-blade props are the most widely used both by freestyle pilots and racers. They balance precise cornering with decent bottom-end thrust and top-end speed.
DAL CYCLONE T5046C
The DAL Cyclone can do it all. It makes enough thrust for either racing or freestyle. It’s aggressive enough that it’ll liven up a 2300kv motor, but it won’t over-load a 2600kv motor either. It’s unbelievably durable. Even if it gets a little nicked up, it seldom breaks, and you can just keep flying it if you don’t mine a few vibrations.
I’ve gotta be honest: the Cyclone is pretty dated. There are newer props of better design, and they’re not much more expensive than the Cyclone either. But the Cyclone stays on the list because it’s inexpensive, durable, and available almost everywhere.
THE KING IS BACK
(THE KING NEVER LEFT)
HQ V1S SERIES
The HQ V1S series finally puts to bed HQ’s reputation for making fragile, expensive props. The V1S is only expensive. But holy cow is it durable, and that at least sort of makes up for the price.
But look, I’m really under-selling it. If all this prop did was update the classic HQ 5x4x3 to be more durable, then it would be a heck of a good prop. The V1S series comes in four pitches, to suit whatever motor and flight style you have.
The 4.3″ pitch version is for light, low-torque freestyle motors. Just a little more thrust than the classic 5x4x3, for stronger modern motors.
The 5″ pitch version is for people who want lots of thrust, and don’t mind hurting their batteries a little. It’s best paired with high-torque motors in the 2306, 2207, or larger size class.
The 4.8″ pitch version is closer to the 5″ than the 4.3″. It still needs a relatively torquey motor to handle best, but it’s just a little less amp-hungry.
The 4.0″ pitch version of this prop, in my opinion, is a little light for modern motors, even the smaller ones. If you really wanted to give up thrust in order to maximize flight time, then the 4.0″ would be your choice. But for me, the 4.3″ is as light as I would want to go.
FAST, PRECISE, AND DURABLE
I first came to love the Hurricane 51499 prop when I was searching for the best prop for my JB2407 motor. Because my quad was heavier, it was loose and imprecise in corners. The 51499 has razor sharp handling in corners and plenty of speed in the straights.
Although the Hurricane line was designed for racing, I like them for freestyle. They are not as smooth and controllable in the low end as some pilots would prefer. This is a great prop for somebody who wants to punch the throttle and get slammed back in their seat.
The Hurricanes are also designed to be durable. The hub is reinforced so that, after a crash, you can just bend them back and keep flying. This is advertised as making them suitable for racers, but I know freestyle pilots will appreciate it just as much.
If you have big, torquey motors and you want the most thrust and sharpest handling, choose the 51499 size. But you’ll need really healthy batteries or a really lightweight quad in order to keep you flight time up. The 51466 version is slightly easier on the battery, and may be a better choice for smaller motors, or higher-kv motors.
SMOOTHEST FREESTYLE PROP
AZURE POWER JOHNNY FREESTYLE 4838
If you’re looking for the ultimate in freestyle smoothness, this is the prop for you. It’s extremely light, at just under 4 grams, which means it can change speed rapidly in response to propwash oscillation, even if you haven’t got an ultra torquey motor. It’s still reasonably durable, although not as durable as heavier props can be.
This is definitely NOT a general-purpose prop! It’s 4.8″ in diameter and only 3.8 pitch, which means it’s going to make much less thrust than a typical 5″ prop would. It’s best paired with a higher kv motor, such as Johnny’s own 2207/2700kv from Lumenier. And don’t bother trying to pair this prop with motors bigger than about 2306 or 2207. The additional torque of the larger, heavier motor isn’t needed.
LOST MODEL BUZZER
Crashing a quad somewhere and not being able to find it is heartbreaking. There are lots of techniques for finding a lost quad, but most of them require the battery to be plugged in. What if the battery ejects in the crash? That’s where these lost model buzzers come in. They have a built-in 1-cell LiPo that charges up while you’re flying. When the lipo disconnects, they begin to beep. LOUDLY. Way louder than a standard buzzer. That way, you can always find your quad, even if it’s lost power. BONUS! All of these buzzers also act like your normal quad buzzer, which means you have an EXTRA LOUD buzzer that you can activate using an aux switch whenever you need to.
The Vifly Finder is my personal favorite. It’s the loudest of the three on this page. The others sound loud until you are in the middle of a field trying to find them and then suddenly you wish they were louder. The Finder has a push-button for disarming, which is more convenient than the Hellgate’s method of plugging and un-plugging the LiPo. The Finder V2 added a LiPo that flashes, to give a visual indicator of the quad’s location. It also added a photo sensor that causes the quad to only beep during the day, to save power and avoid annoying your neighbors. The main disadvantage of the Finder is that it’s about twice the size of the other two (due to its giant buzzer), so it may not be the best choice for very tight builds.
The Hellgate has to be acknowledged as the original product that defined this category. It wasn’t the first lost-model buzzer to exist, but it’s the first to fit everything into such a small package. In fact, it’s the smallest of the three, which makes it perfect for very tight builds. My favorite method of mounting the Hellgate is to heat-shrink it to a standoff. It just tucks right in. The Hellgate can last longer than the other buzzers–up to two weeks! It does this by slowly decreasing the frequency of the beeping as the battery discharges. The main disadvantage of the Hellgate is that it lacks a disarm button. To disarm it, you plug the LiPo in for a few seconds, then quickly un plug it. That’s fine, but if the Hellgate has come off the quad, or if the XT60 is broken, then you’re stuck with the damn thing beeping and beeping at you and it won’t shut up and it drives all your friends crazy and … well, if you’ve lived through it, you know how annoying it is. The Hellgate is also the most expensive of the three. At a price of about $30, you’re probably going to wince at putting one on all your quads.
CHEAPEST WORTH HAVING
FULLSPEED LUCKY BUZZER
The Lucky Buzzer is the least expensive of the three, coming in under $10. It’s about half again as large as the Hellgate, so it’s still pretty small, but not exactly go-anywhere tiny. It’s got a disarm button and an LED that flashes. One thing that makes it stand out is that it’s got configurable alarm delay and frequency. The Lucky Buzzer’s battery life is the shortest of the three on this page. The Hellgate uses a special algorithm to extend life by beeping less frequently as the battery gets lower, while ViFly just uses a much bigger battery.